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powder foundation developing color range from fait to deep - could you please help?
Hello,Hi everyone, I am new on this forum, I am a passionate color cosmetic formulator. I definately need your help.Could you please advice what would be the best approach?Let’s grant I have some olive fair shade and basing on used pigment proportions I would like to develop deeper shades, so: light/medium/tan/deep etc.Let’s grant I have a white base (A) of my foundation powder consisting of 20% titanium dioxide, 5% zinc oxide, 2% silica, 2% kaolin, 71% mica.Let’s also grant that I developed the lightest (fair) shade by mixing 97g of base with 3g of olive color concentrate B (mix of iron oxides).What would be the best approach to develop deepr shades?2 solutions come to my mind…1) Use different proportions of white base A and color concentrate B: so for example 95g of A with 5g of B for light shade, 90g of A with 10g of B for medium shade etc… But in this approach all those shades have different percentages of mica/zinc oxide/silica/kaolin… The biggest difference will be between percentages in fair and deepest shade… The deepst shade will have the smallest amount of texturizing agents…2) I develop deeper shades by preserving all the precentages of mica filler and texturizing/adhesion agents (each shade has exactly the same percentages of mica, zinc oxide, silica, kaolin) and I develop deeper shades by increasing percentage of iron oxide mix and lowering percentage of titanium dioxide - but finally the sum of titanium dioxide + iron oxides stays the same in all shades…Which approach is better? Or maybe none of them is okey?I would appreciate any your comments. -
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