Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Polyquat 10

  • Polyquat 10

    Posted by GARIFUNA on June 21, 2018 at 7:36 pm

    I made this flaxseed based gel for personal use. I’ve made it before but this time decided to add some polyquat 10.  When I applied to my hair it gets a bit soapy. Can anyone tell why this could be happening?Thanks

    94% water infused with flaxseed and marshmallow root
    3% glycine betaine sugar extract
    2% squalane light
    1% polyquat 10
    Also added  5 drops of EO at the end. 

    Chemist77 replied 6 years, 6 months ago 3 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • DavidW

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 2:14 am
    Well I am not sure but I would say if you may it before with no issues and now it’s soapy then must be the addition of polyquat 10.  It seems to me you have too much in there.  Typically I would use it at around 0.1% to 0.3%  I also don’t see how you get a gel from what your wrote as the formula. 
    Last thing, you’re adding oil to water with nothing that would allow them to mix together.
  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 4:27 am

    Thanks…the flaxseed produces a mucilage  which forms a gel and helps holdsthe EO which is next to nothing. This is  for personal use  and I only make 100 grams to use up right away so I didn’t bother with solubilizer. I thought the usage rate for polyquat 10 was up to 2%. I will try it at a lower rate. I added it for the curl retention ability since I have curly hair. Thanks

  • Chemist77

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 5:04 am

    Polyquat 10 is more of conditioning polymer, styling wouldn’t be a strong feature of this product. It is hygroscopic too, so there goes your curl retention out for a toss. 

  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 10:51 am

    That’s what I mostly understand the polymer to be. However I have been using a shampoo that contains this polymer and noticed that my curls seemed more clumped together after washing.There are no other polymers or ingredients listed on the product except for a bunch of extracts and surfactants. When I tried the gel on my hair my curls did clump together and stayed that way when dried. I have never had them do that except with strong hold carbomer gels. I am novice formulator but I wonder if the smoothing action of the polymer reduced the static charge and allowed my hair to come together. It did remain soft to the touch as well. I have ethnic hair and I was surprised at the result as well. I also saw a comment from a user from the point of in interest blog posted some yeears ago from someone with ethnic hair stating that the polymer had a similar effect. I have heard that cationic guar in particular seems to have this type of effect on ethnic hair. Is it similar to the polyquat 10? 

  • Chemist77

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 10:59 am

    They are cationic including the quaternized guar, since they are conditioners and reduce friction it might have worked in your favour. In that case give it a try then, otherwise over conditioning may cause limping and flat hair if you think of normal hair. 

  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 11:18 am

    Thanks @ chemist77. What would be your max suggested usage rate for polyquat 10?

  • Chemist77

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 11:39 am

    My 2-in-1 shampoo has 0.3% and it makes the customer pretty happy. You could go a bit higher, go through the literature though and see what maximum high you can hit without overkill.

  • GARIFUNA

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 11:48 am

    I will start at .5 and see if I get the same effect. It seems as if ethic hair tends to tolerate higher levels of conditioning. I am guessing that this is because of the tightly curled nature of the hair polymer deposition on hair may be at a lesser rate. Most people with ethnic hair tend to use not only more product but multiple products to get the same effect as other hair types. Thanks for your help @chemist77

  • Chemist77

    Member
    June 22, 2018 at 12:33 pm

    Yeah in case of ethnic hair you need that extra push, guess 0.5% is a decent start.
    If you need detailed literature, just pm your mail id and I would send you the one from Dow & Innospec. 

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