Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Polymer Rehydration

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  • Polymer Rehydration

    Posted by Omnitrix on May 13, 2025 at 12:01 am

    Hello @all,

    I have a question about rheology modifiers. I am trying to create an oil-in-water emulsion, high viscosity gel cream type that when applied to the skin feels as light as dimethicone and will not form a slimy film on the skin when in contact with sweat. Here are the rheology modifiers and polymeric thickeners I have worked with - cold processible only:

    1. Sepiplus 400

    2. Sepimax Zen

    3. Cellulosics

    4. Xanthan gum and the likes.

    5. polyurethane-64

    What I do is to use it and then after a minute wet my hands with water to mimic sweat though I know that sweat is made up of different things. But, what I noticed is that, when they are applied to the skin, they are nice but when water comes in contact with them, there’s this slimy residue that is noticeable. This is not ideal in humid tropical weather.

    Right now, I am into trying Aculyn Siltouch, but I want to know if any of you have experience using this material? Does it create a slimy form or rehydrate when in contact with water again or sweat? Any recommendations?

    Thank you in advance.

    Omnitrix replied 1 week, 6 days ago 4 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • fareloz

    Member
    May 16, 2025 at 8:31 am

    If you don’t want the slime feeling - you need something that is not water-soluble. All water thickeners are water-soluble and will react with the sweat.

    • Omnitrix

      Member
      May 16, 2025 at 8:44 am

      @fareloz: thank you so much for your reply.

      yes. that is what i am thinking as well. Polymers that have high affinity to water or water swellable polymers will always swell in the presence of water. So, I am trying to find a rheology modifier that does that. I am thinking of HEUR systems or veegum clays. But I am not quite sure about it.

      Any recommendations on this? I would highly appreciate your input on this.

      I look forward to your response.

      • This reply was modified 4 weeks ago by  Omnitrix.
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 19, 2025 at 2:29 pm

    Hard to believe that polyurethane would behave like that. The others, yes, especlaly xanthan and a celluosic. Try Veegum with a very little amount of carbomer. This will give a cream-gel rheology with a fast break on your skin. Adding some cetyl alcohol will help “de-slime” also.

    • Omnitrix

      Member
      May 20, 2025 at 1:55 am

      Hello chemicalmatt,

      Sorry, I was referring to polyurethane-62. If polyurethane-62 is not highly likely to do that, then, I guess it could be because of the humectant (hexanediol 3%) that is present in the formula. Otherwise, I couldn’t think of any reason as to why it did form a slimy residue when I used it. I used the Reshape-Gel and Tixogel from MySkinRecipes. I was trying to build viscosity to create a high-viscosity cold process cream.

      Thank you guys.

  • jemolian

    Member
    May 22, 2025 at 7:41 pm

    Have you tried Sepinov EMT 10, or perhaps if your formula doesn’t contain any electrolytes, maybe make use of carbomers where there are electrolyte sensitive. They should break down with sweat.

    • Omnitrix

      Member
      May 23, 2025 at 7:01 am

      @jemolian: I have electrolytes in my formula. Yes, I have sepinov emt 10. I also did the combination of sepimax zen and sepinov emt 10, it feels good on the skin, but when you sweat, there’s this slime that is very undesirable in humid-tropical climates. Also, I don’t want them to break down with sweat. What I am is that when the skin sweats, there is no perceptible slime on the skin. It’s really gross.

      • jemolian

        Member
        May 23, 2025 at 7:40 am

        I understand what you mean since i’m in Singapore, it’s humid here as well. My formula doesn’t contain much electrolytes, which is why mainly use Sepinov, if not I would use the electrolyte sensitive polymers so they can break on the skin when I sweat to give it the quick break effect to avoid the sliminess.

        • Omnitrix

          Member
          May 23, 2025 at 7:46 am

          @jemolian: do you have any other materials in mind aside from Sepinov EMT 10? what’s your recommendations?

          • jemolian

            Member
            May 23, 2025 at 7:49 am

            If you have to use the electrolyte ingredients, you can look at the carbomer options but you have to tweak it really well to have a good balance between stability and breaking, with the support of the Sepinov. Have you tried Ultrez 20 or 30? I didn’t use too U20 too often because of the wetting time (I prefer to make my batch faster) but it would be my alternative.

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