Polarity of cosmetic oils?

Formulating

Polarity of cosmetic oils?

Posted by Anonymous on May 21, 2014 at 9:51 am

Hello everybody,

i am searching for some data about the polarity of cosmetic oil. A book oder some papers will be helpful. I search it for classic cosmetic oils like MCT, IPM, CastorOil, Sunflower Oil, Olive Oil and also for DiPa and C12 - C15 Alkyl Benzoate. Is there a list or some data available, maybe some data about interfacial tension?

Thank you very much for your help…

Greetings

Chris

Anu1111 replied 4 years ago 7 Members · 10 Replies
10 Replies

MakingSkincare

Member
May 21, 2014 at 11:37 am

Water’s Polarity Index is 10.3. I’ve copied and pasted some info below:-

Common Oil (CTFA name) Polarity index [mN/m]:-

Non polar Isoparaffin (C12-C14) 53.0 Squalane 46.2 Isohexadecan (ARLAMOL ND) 43.8 Mineral Oil (Paraffin oil perliquidum) 43.7 Mineral Oil (Paraffin oil subliquidum) 38.3 Polar Cetystearyloctanoate 28.6 Dimethicone (silicon oil 20 ct) 26.6 Isopropylpalmitate 25.2 Octyldodecanol 24.8 Dioctyladipate (ARLAMOL DOA) 24.5 Isopropymyristate 24.2 Octylpalmitate (2-ethylhexylpalmitate) 23.1 Hexamethyldisiloxan 22.7 Isopropylstearate 21.9 Carpyl/Caprine acid triglyceride (neutral oil) 21.3 Isopropylisostearate 21.2 Jojoba Oil 20.8 Cyclomethicone (ARLAMOL D4) 20.6 Peanut oil 20.5 Almond oil 20.3 Sunflower oil 19.3 Decyloleate 18.7 Avocado Oil 18.3 Olive oil 16.9 Castor oil 13.7 Calendula Oil 11.1 Wheat germ oil 8.3

Some more useful info here:-

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/y2004/0258654.html

To add to the above, the following are non-polar: cyclomethicone, dimethicone, mineral oil.

Polar oils/esters etc: c12-15 alkyl benzoate, ppg-3 myristyl ether, octyldodecanol, ppg-11 stearyl ether, ppg-14 butyl ether, triisostearin
Anonymous

Guest
May 21, 2014 at 4:31 pm

Thanks alot for your reply. This is very good. I found also something in patents. I am not sure how to cite patents in my master thesis. You got this “Common Oil Polarity Index” also from a patent? Is there a official document available? I found also a chapter in a book. But this is excatly what i need just as a better source for citation…

thanks to all of you

P.S. If i found something i will post it here as well…
nasrins

Member
May 22, 2014 at 3:32 am

@MakingSkincare the higher the numbers the polarity decreased?
MakingSkincare

Member
May 22, 2014 at 5:26 am

Yes that’s right Nasrins
cosmo_girl

Member
June 2, 2014 at 5:05 am

@Makingskincare can you please explain how we use polarity in formulating? What do these numbers mean?

Thanks in advance for explaining.
MakingSkincare

Member
June 2, 2014 at 3:36 pm

cosmo_girl - this article explains it well - http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/chemistry/17390254.html
Chemist77

Member
June 2, 2014 at 9:46 pm

The polarity would let you decide to choose the right emulsifier but then HLB IS limited to non-ionic emulsions only, for me this feature is pretty narrow.
Though other properties like skin feel, pigment wetting are more general and can be considered for emulsions, in general.
MX_science

Member
February 15, 2020 at 4:31 am

Hi,

I know this is an old thread but I still have some questions specifically around information posted in this thread so hopefully someone can still speak to this.

MY SITUATION

I am trying to create an anhydrous oil blend, and it keeps separating. After much research I thought, “ah-ha! maybe their polarities don’t match!”

However, even though I have found MOST polarity index numbers for my oils in the mix, it’s not clear to me that the number is a solid way to determine if they are POLAR or NONPOLAR.

Because MAKING SKINCARE listed Carpyl/Caprine acid triglyceride (neutral oil) @ 21.3 I thought that if that is the “NEUTRAL POINT,” I initially assumed that everything higher in # would be NONPOLAR and everything lower in #, POLAR.

Specific examples would be:

Cyclomethicone @ 20.6, is a lower # than the neutral point of 21.3, so why isn’t it considered to be on the “polar” side of neutral?

If it is true that the higher the number, the less polar the oil then I am plain confused by why Cyclomethicone is specifically called out in the same post as being NONpolar, along with these that fall higher in number than the “neutral oil”:

-dimethicone @ 26.6 and

-mineral oil @ 43.7 & 38.3.

What am I missing? Is the neutral point simply incorrectly listed? Or are there other more complicated molecular factors that determine polar or non-polar and the numbers are simply a secondary influence compared to those?

I read this article suggested and it didn’t hint at this seeming paradox. https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/chemistry/17390254.html

Similarly, Jojoba oil @ 20.8 is stated to be a “ Relatively more polar oil (per O’Lenik)” but is JUST BELOW the neutral threshold of 21.3. How is that possible if it is just shy of being neutral?
Pharma

Member
February 16, 2020 at 9:22 am

As far as I know, polarity index starts at a 0 (for super nonpolar compounds such as pentane) and goes up to very polar compounds such as water with a 9.

Another value used to determine polarity is dipole moment.

I wonder what numbers you are using? Is it even an SI unit?
Anu1111

Member
October 9, 2020 at 5:35 pm

@Mx-science The freepatentonline article states that 5-30 index as polar and above 35 as apolar

Anonymous