Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Please help with Hyaloronic acid phase

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  • Please help with Hyaloronic acid phase

    Posted by Jdawgswife76 on November 16, 2018 at 12:53 am

    I am formulating a moisturizer with HA and I just want to make sure that i am to create the HA base and let it thicken and then REHEAT as my water phase for my moisturizer.  I want to make sure this will not destroy the HA in any way. 

    Jdawgswife76 replied 6 years ago 4 Members · 20 Replies
  • 20 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 16, 2018 at 1:30 am

    @Jdawgswife76:

    All you need to do, if you are making a cream, is make your emulsion (combine the heated water and oil phases, then homogenize).  As your emulsion is cooling down, you can then add the HA, by sifting-in the powder and mix/stir … it will hydrate in the cooling emulsion.

    If you add the HA in the water phase and thicken, oftentimes the HA will prevent the emulsion from forming, unless you are using Super Low Molecular Weight HA.  If you are using a higher molecular weight HA in the heated water phase before forming the emulsion, the homogenizer may also “shread” the HA.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 17, 2018 at 1:24 am

    Thank you so even though my emulsion will not be a watery liquid and will be a thicker consistency the HA Will still hydrate it? 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 17, 2018 at 9:54 am

    Depends on the amount and a method. Add it to the vortex, leave for a couple of hours and mix again. Just make sure you added a preservative and don’t leave your lotion opened before second mixing.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 17, 2018 at 10:15 am

    Got it!  I will cover with plasric wrap to hold the moisture in.. Thanks again im gonna try it today. 

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 17, 2018 at 2:31 pm

    Yes, it will hydrate … just add at the cool down phase at about 45C once the emulsion has formed while stirring.  It is not necessary to cover with plastic wrap to hold in moisture as your not going to get an significant evaporation.  But, if you are concerned about something falling in … try using a small, clear plastic disposable plate … much easier to work with.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 17, 2018 at 2:41 pm

    I said to close it from sanitary point of view.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 18, 2018 at 6:41 am

    I got it thanks i always do that anyway to protect from dust,  micros,  etc. Thanks agi x. Ç

  • Doreen

    Member
    November 18, 2018 at 10:50 am

    If you are using a higher molecular weight HA in the heated water phase before forming the emulsion, the homogenizer may also “shread” the HA.

    So this is less likely to happen in the cooling down phase?
    How about other (synthetic) polymers with high molecular weight, like carbomers etc? 

  • Anonymous

    Guest
    November 18, 2018 at 1:55 pm

    No, it is less likely to happen if you don’t use a homogenizer after adding the HA, but simply stir or mix

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 6:04 am

    Idk about most diy formulaters but I dont think theh have homogenizees sitting around would  this apply to any mixing method? Such as a stick blender

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 6:06 am

    Ok so technically i could  add a 1% premade HA TO ANY OF my already completed cream formulations and it would still hydrate in it?  Or am i reading  into this wrong 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 6:43 am

    Stick blender is the worst way to mix your product. Either buy a cheap Chinese overhead stirrer (they can be as cheap as 80 usd) or make tiny batches and mix them with a paint mini mixer. If you are serious about this hobby get an overhead stirrer.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 4:34 am

    Do you have a place you can direct me for the ovethead stirrer for the $80? I am currently just making small test batches but i am deff seriouse about this I have invested alot in materials,  equipment , packaging,  ingredients,  etc and I just LOVE doing it.  I am still learning thougj but i think there is always something to be learned in this industry,  hobby,  etc

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 4:35 am

    Also so would i be able to add HA to one of my previously completed products (creams)  and it would hydrate it? 

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 4:38 am

    Everyone has been great this is why i love being apart of this discussion group.  Everyone is wonderful and helpful and I have learned alot from being a part of this

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 7:05 am

    @Jdawgswife76 if you are still making test batches get this one BADGER Airbrush Paint Mixer BA121 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000BROV02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ou69BbKA4W962 I think it’s the best thing for learning. Helps to make tiny batches and not waste expensive materials. But do get this one! Not a frappe maker, it will aerate your product! This little thing can mix sodium carbomer into a ready product. I couldn’t do it witha a stick blender. Once you start making larger batches (to share with friends) go to ebay, and look up for a lab overhead stirrer, 100W or above, 3000 rpm or above, with anchor blade (preferably but not a must).

  • Doreen

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 11:44 am

    No, it is less likely to happen if you don’t use a homogenizer after adding the HA, but simply stir or mix

    Ok, only low shear, thanks! :+1:

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 1:02 pm

    @Jdawgswife76, I have this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Overhead-Stirrer-Mixer-Variable-Speed-Stainless-Steel-100W-220V-UK-Ship/292712381330?hash=item4427047b92:g:vC4AAOSwIFRbj4GP

    It is very basic, but you don’t need more for small batches (400 gr). The most important thing in it for me, it mixes silica and polymers and doesn’t aerate the product (stick blender can’t mix silica into your product without lumps and introduces too much air). You can make batches between 100 and 400 gr using it It’s good for the price.

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 4:06 pm

    @ngarayeva001.. Thanks 🙂

  • Jdawgswife76

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 4:08 pm

    I have the air brush paint mixer i didnt know thats what it was called though lol i have had it for awhile and never used it for anything so this is fantastic TY

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