Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Phenoxy and ethoxylated surfactants.

  • Phenoxy and ethoxylated surfactants.

    Posted by Graillotion on December 13, 2024 at 7:15 pm

    Aloha

    I use PE 9010 (phenoxy + EHG) as the jumping off point for most of my potions preservation system. I also use 165 type (Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate) emulsifier as a jumping off point on almost all emulsions. I have long been aware of the little blurb buried in the marketing material, regarding “Ethoxylated surfactants may lead to loss of effectiveness.”

    My memory was jogged recently when a cosmetic chemist mentioned that she does not use Phenoxy when using, and she included PEG-100 stearate in her list.

    I had researched (maybe bounced of my mentor) this topic before, and was assured in a typical emulsion that might have 4% 165 type….which further delineated might have 1.5% ethoxylated content…. that the poison was all in the dosing. Meaning …. at that inclusion rate, it was not a concern.

    Compound this with….one can find 1,000 commercial formulas with PE 9010 and 165…. what is the dosing that creates the poison?

    It was sooooooooo long ago…. that I looked into this…. about all I could remember from the dusty memory banks was something to the effect of…. not a big concern unless you are working with a very heavy load of ethoxylated emulsifiers/surfactants.

    Would love to hear thoughts….see links to research…etc. Calling Dr Phil … @PhilGeis

    In organizing the lab the other day…. I found a sample of an emulsion that was 1,631 days old….with the aforementioned suspects …. Looks like the day I made it. 😉

    • This discussion was modified 1 month ago by  Graillotion.
    PhilGeis replied 4 weeks, 1 day ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 16, 2024 at 1:43 pm

    I am not aware of where she learned of that deactivation property assigned to ethoxylates. Your empirical research clearly shows that it may have been misguided. Some ethoxylates (not all) have been known to deactivate parabens and some others, polysorbate 20 being notorious for that, but phenoxyethanol is entirely different chemistry. I say go with the flow.

    • Fekher

      Member
      December 17, 2024 at 11:32 am

      I already read about high ethoxylated product and deactivation of phenoxyethanol in scientific pdf paper just I forgot the reference if I find it I will share that.

      • Graillotion

        Member
        December 17, 2024 at 2:04 pm

        Aloha.

        I am very well aware of the concern with a HIGHLY ethoxylated product. My interest is in cause/effect in LOW ethoxylated products. Like a moisturizing cream or lotion. 😉

        Poison is always in the dosing. Trying to find where the line is.

        • Fekher

          Member
          December 17, 2024 at 4:21 pm

          Wich is your level of ethoxylated ingredients?

  • Graillotion

    Member
    December 19, 2024 at 3:30 am

    Dr Geis, were you willing to take a shot at this question….maybe establish a ‘level’ of ethoxylation that phenoxy can be compatible with, or maybe the better wording might be…. not compromised? @PhilGeis

    • PhilGeis

      Member
      December 19, 2024 at 9:06 am

      Sorry - I’ve not enough information to answer with validity. My approach has always been Edisonian

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