Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Percentage Calculation for hair styling clay

  • Percentage Calculation for hair styling clay

    Posted by gnomebeard on October 5, 2018 at 6:13 am

    I’ve noticed many clay pomades (water-based and oil-based) use clay at a high percentage.  I’m only assuming since Kaolin clay is typically at the top of the ingredients list.  Take for example Mailroom Barber Co.  Thye make a simple, yet effective oil based clay.  The first ingredient is Kaolin.  For some reason, it just seems like a LOT of clay.  Do you think this formula would fail on me if I attempt to make it?  Would this give too much tug?  

    I’m guessing their formula is something like this…

    KAOLIN CLAY  65% 

    JOJOBA OIL  10% 

    COCONUT OIL 8%  

    CASTOR OIL 5%

    HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 5%

    CARNAUBA WAX 5%  

    ARROWROOT POWDER 2%  

    ESSENTIAL OILS


    gnomebeard replied 6 years, 2 months ago 4 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Dirtnap1

    Member
    October 5, 2018 at 7:11 pm

    Many INCI Ingredient lists are inaccurate or incorrect/missing ingredients/out of order in some way, especially coming from smaller companies. As they do not want reverse engineering of their exact formula. 

    Most clay products will have higher amounts of waxes/oils/binders compared to the clay itself.

  • belassi

    Member
    October 5, 2018 at 7:36 pm

    Do you think this formula would fail on me if I attempt to make it? 
    Why don’t you try it and see? What’s with this endless asking of this type of question? If I have this kind of question I just go into the lab and DO IT.

  • Toom

    Member
    October 6, 2018 at 1:02 am

    I would guess what would stop you would be the cost of acquiring all of these ingredients. Only to potentially see it fail. Dirtnaps answer is right on the money.

    That recipe you have looks top heavy with too much kaolin. I have made hair clays that are very hard with 40% Kaolin and circa 50% oils. Just an opinion though

  • belassi

    Member
    October 6, 2018 at 4:31 am

    That’s 8 low cost ingredients, commonly available. The thing is, unless you experiment you will not develop the skills to perfect a formula. It’s by direct experience we discover how to impart desirable properties. But, perhaps you just want to make a commercial product and sell it rather than learn how to formulate. If that’s the case, it would be quicker and more logical to hire a design lab or buy an off the shelf base. 

  • gnomebeard

    Member
    October 7, 2018 at 2:12 am

    Well I only ask because I want your opinion.  After all you don’t have to answer “This type of question”…imagine the freedom! ?

    Oh and because of $$$

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