Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Advanced Questions penetration enhancer combined with HMW hyaluronic acid= similar to LMW HA?

  • penetration enhancer combined with HMW hyaluronic acid= similar to LMW HA?

    Posted by ETcellphone on March 28, 2021 at 11:26 pm

    I have been looking into penetration enhancers the last few days. Ingredients like:
    - dimethyl isosorbide (DMI)
    tetrahydropiperine (THP)
    Ethoxydiglycol

    However, when researching, this thought occurred to me: if you use a penetration enhancer in a formula that contains high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid, could the penetration enhancer cause the HA to pass through the stratum corneum and go deeper into the skin? 

    Why it could be a problem:
    I find this could be problematic because low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, the kind of HA that can penetrate the skin, has been shown to have an inflammatory effect on the skin. I am wondering if a penetration enhancer could cause a HMW HA to act like a low molecular weight HA if it helps the HA to penetrate the skin instead of just sit on top like it normally would.  

    I only use HMW HA in my formulas because it thickens the formula, increases spreadability and has a moisturizing benefit. 

    What do you think? What is your opinion on penetration enhancers in general?

    DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ replied 3 years, 7 months ago 4 Members · 3 Replies
  • 3 Replies
  • Pattsi

    Member
    March 29, 2021 at 6:52 am

    I wouldn’t recon Cosmoperine® for amateur (sorry if you are a professional).
    DMI and Ethoxydiglycol - will do. EU restricts 
    Ethoxydiglycol % tho.

    Specific type HA is used as dermal filler, US FDA approved it thousand years ago? I can’t remember.
    https://www.fda.gov/medical-devices/aesthetic-cosmetic-devices/fda-approved-dermal-fillers

  • Pharma

    Member
    March 29, 2021 at 11:06 am
    These won’t work. You’d need something like nanoparticles, liposomes or other microencapsulating ‘shuttles’ for that job.
    Solvents and co. only work with low molecular weight molecules.
  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    April 3, 2021 at 7:44 pm

    You need a microemulsion using Oleic Acid ;ps of 25 nm should  be transparent if you want the latter.

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