Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating pearlizing a shampoo

  • pearlizing a shampoo

    Posted by esmail on February 27, 2019 at 2:28 pm
    hi
    could i use EGMS&EGDS (ethylene glycol mono&di stearat) or one of those as pearlizing agent for my shampoo  formula?
    if answer is yes, how much(%) of those i should use? and what is the best time to add it during the process?
    esmail replied 5 years, 9 months ago 6 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 3:08 pm

    Save yourself a lot of grief and just use one of the standard cold-pearl blends in the manufacturer’s percentage.

  • JonahRay

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 4:33 pm

    Glycol Distearate at 1-2%

  • esmail

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 4:54 pm
    thanks for your replies

    Belassi said:

    Save yourself a lot of grief and just use one of the standard cold-pearl blends in the manufacturer’s percentage.

    i just access to those in pure form in my region.

  • esmail

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 9:31 pm

    @Belassi sir after you mention that i look up and found a matrial from a supplier called “pearlized texapon” (pearlized SLES 28% active).
    now the question is when i should add it? at the end of process or mix it with other surfactant(SLES 70% active, CDEA and DLSSuccinate at early stage?
  • belassi

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 9:41 pm

    I haven’t found a version of Texapon that has been pearled. I suspect that supplier has added their own pearl to a standard Texapon SLES (EG: N-5, N-5G, or N-70)
    Quickpearl PSB3 (Lubrizol)
    Another one is Hallstar EGAS.
    I add pearl at the end of the mix.

  • esmail

    Member
    February 27, 2019 at 10:13 pm

    Belassi said:

    I haven’t found a version of Texapon that has been pearled. I suspect that supplier has added their own pearl to a standard Texapon SLES (EG: N-5, N-5G, or N-70)
    Quickpearl PSB3 (Lubrizol)
    Another one is Hallstar EGAS.
    I add pearl at the end of the mix.

    yes they pearlizes SLES with ethylene glycol esteatates and sell it under that name.
    thanks for your attention sir.

  • Mel55

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 7:56 am

    Hello, I am a home lotion crafter, just making products for myself and a few friends.  I am having no luck adding glycol distearate to my shampoo.  The basic surfactant formula is 10% SLeS, 5% coco betaine and 10% polyglucoside.  I have tried it without the polyglucoside, and have also tried replacing the SLeS with SCI.  I have tried heating the glycol distearate separately from the other ingredients (including water, glycerine, hydrolised wheat protein) and then mixing them when they are at the same temperature.  I have tried heating it with the other surfactants, heating all ingredients together and even heating the glycol distearate separately with oil.

    The result is always the same. It forms a crystalised layer on the top of the formula.  Even if I stir regularly while cooling, the end product is lumpy and gritty.  I am in Australia and not sure what alternatives may be available to me to add mildness and thicken a shampoo.  Can anyone assist?

    Thanks,

    M

  • esmail

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 11:20 am
    @Mel55     i used pearlized SLES with few precent of glycol steatars (mentioned above) in low percents(0.5% active matter at maximum), its easy to use and had a good pearling effect on my products.
    5% betaine as active matter or just 5% of purchased matrial?
    when i use SLES+CAPB in ratios lower than 3:1 (active), it cause irratiation to my skin
  • Pallavi123

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 11:24 am

    If you are using any solid content in your formulation then you should go for heating process. As per me you should use EGDS for pearly shampoo in the concentration of 2% (2% EGDS gives very nice pearly appearance) and you should add it with other solid ingredients and heat it to get a solution and with the help of slow stirring add other ingredients.

  • esmail

    Member
    February 28, 2019 at 3:28 pm
    i found when whashing clothes with my shampoos or hand soaps they smells dead fish odor after air drying :s
    i use 0.1% presevator (methyl and chloro methyl isothiazolin) in my products and products are all maded in this week, so whats the problem?

  • Mel55

    Member
    March 2, 2019 at 10:47 pm

    @esmail and @Pallavi123 thanks for your comments. Melting it with solid ingredients has not worked but I will look for the other ingredient you suggest. Thanks @esmail for your advice regarding ratios. I am referring to supplied material but will check active matter. For a mild shampoo, what percentage of active SLeS and CAPB would you recommend? Would you recommend a third surfactant? I am struggling to develop a mild shampoo. Do you have a formula you could share?

    Thanks.

  • Mary24

    Member
    March 3, 2019 at 1:49 pm

    Mel55 : pearly layer to be stable need high viscosity about (8000-1000 ) and if u are a home crafter don’t have viscometer so try to add NaCl with different % till make the pearly layer stable 

  • Mary24

    Member
    March 3, 2019 at 1:56 pm

    esmail : try to use Euperlan PK 771 from BASF .. 1% ..add it finally before adding thickner .. I an using it giving very good result 
    Note : your formula need to be with high viscosity about (8000-1000 ) to make the pearly appearance stable 

  • esmail

    Member
    March 3, 2019 at 3:12 pm
    @Mary24: thank you for your attention but i have not access to these commertial matterials. and bad odor stay still even add no pearlizer to the shamoo.
  • esmail

    Member
    March 3, 2019 at 3:25 pm
    @Mel55: the general ratio mentioned in literature and also by this site wise users is 4:1 to 3:1 in active for SLES:CAPB, but i see many commertial product that uses betaines as major surfactant in their formula.
    for third surfactant you may want look at succiantes. grant good big boble foam to the product and mild to skin and have low eye sting(uses as the major sufactant in baby shampoos), but may affect salt thikening in higher % and may pH sensetive as i read about them(i use disodium laureth sulfosuccinate).
    sorry for my bad english

  • esmail

    Member
    March 6, 2019 at 9:17 am

    esmail said:

    i found when whashing clothes with my shampoos or hand soaps they smells dead fish odor after air drying :s
    i use 0.1% presevator (methyl and chloro methyl isothiazolin) in my products and products are all maded in this week, so whats the problem?

    no one can please help me with that bad odor?

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