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PE9010 was a disappointment
A few people here recommended it since optiphen was destabilizing my emulsions…PE9010 also destabilized my emulsion. It wasn’t as bad but not much significant improvement. Just thought I would share.
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19 Replies
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For the uninitiated… PE9010 is from Ashland and called euxyl™ pe 9010
INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
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If you are having trouble with destabilization with that…. It sounds like you need to build a better mouse trap (emulsion)….
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That’s what I thought but I’m using a slightly higher than average emulsifier and coemulsifier. If I use anymore the formula will be too thick. But I’ll keep experimenting.
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higher emulsifier doesnt mean better or more stable emulsion. try changing your emulsifiers.
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I use BTMS and cetyl, any you would recommend with similar texture. Some of my clients have sensitive skin so they request BTMS 25. I’ve tried three others and the emulsion still did not hold up. I use hyaluronic acid as the base and its notoriously difficult to keep stable but can be done as commerically available proucts are not incorporating it into their formulas.
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You are using a cationic….are you sure the preservative is the issue? There are all kinds of antagonist with that system.
Have you considered: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate? That is about as reliable as it gets.
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Don’t use extra fatty alcohol with btms 25. That will make your formula stable.
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ProfessorHerb said:I use BTMS and cetyl, any you would recommend with similar texture. Some of my clients have sensitive skin so they request BTMS 25. I’ve tried three others and the emulsion still did not hold up. I use hyaluronic acid as the base and its notoriously difficult to keep stable but can be done as commerically available proucts are not incorporating it into their formulas.Couple of things: “I use hyaluronic acid as a base” … what molecular weight HA are you using and do you incorporate the HA pre or post emulsification? You should be adding it post-emulsification unless it is super low mw HA
BTMS/Cetyl … assuming you are using a pre-blend. Add some Glyceryl Stearate SE to help stabilize the emulsion.
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Euxyl PE 9010 is one of the most popular preservative blends in both homemade and industrial cosmetic products. Since it’s very uncomplicated to use, I can’t understand why you have these issues with the viscosity. Usually if you’d like to get a proper answer of your question, you should share the formula and the workflow. I’ve been using the BTMS 50 and Euxyl PE9010 in combination, and i’ve never had any problems. Also I don’t think BTMS is suitable for sensitive skin (since it’s cationic).
About the Gliceryl Stearate SE which have been mentioned above, as far as I know it’s anionic by nature, so it’s incompatible with the BTMS. -
ggpetrov said:Euxyl PE 9010 is one of the most popular preservative blends in both homemade and industrial cosmetic products. Since it’s very uncomplicated to use, I can’t understand why you have these issues with the viscosity. Usually if you’d like to get a proper answer of your question, you should share the formula and the workflow. I’ve been using the BTMS 50 and Euxyl PE9010 in combination, and i’ve never had any problems. Also I don’t think BTMS is suitable for sensitive skin (since it’s cationic).About the Gliceryl Stearate SE which have been mentioned above, as far as I know it’s anionic by nature, so it’s incompatible with the BTMS.
You don’t need to use high amount of btms like you need for other emulsifiers so small amounts like 1% or lower wouldn’t be a problem for sensitive skin.
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ggpetrov said:Euxyl PE 9010 is one of the most popular preservative blends in both homemade and industrial cosmetic products. Since it’s very uncomplicated to use, I can’t understand why you have these issues with the viscosity. Usually if you’d like to get a proper answer of your question, you should share the formula and the workflow. I’ve been using the BTMS 50 and Euxyl PE9010 in combination, and i’ve never had any problems. Also I don’t think BTMS is suitable for sensitive skin (since it’s cationic).About the Gliceryl Stearate SE which have been mentioned above, as far as I know it’s anionic by nature, so it’s incompatible with the BTMS.
@ggpetrov Both molecules in GS SE are non ionic (esters) and don’t have a formal charge.
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Are you adding the preservative while your batch is still hot? I typically add Phenoxyethanol-based preservatives to the water-phase near the start of making the batch. Don’t wait until cool-down before adding this type of preservative.
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We all use PE 9010 from schulke, this is not the reason this formula is destabilizing.
If you send me your formula I will take a look & tell you what needs tweaking. No charge.
just email it at: catherine@drprattscosmeticformulating.com
and don’t worry I’m not interested in stealing your formula just happy to help out. It’s probably a temperature thing. If you have only just started formulating emulsions, you need to nip this straight away.My phone is: +61 423603068 Australia.
I’ve seen people just give up completely at this stage, and I will bet it’s something easy you have overlooked plus I’m doing this all the time.
Cheers Catherine -
Thank you all so much, I don’t know how to reply to everyone but I’ll try to remember using PE9010 during the hot water phase.
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ProfessorHerb said:Thank you all so much, I don’t know how to reply to everyone but I’ll try to remember using PE9010 during the hot water phase.
Phenoxyethanol solubility in water is more than 2%. So 1% can dissolve in water easily at any stage.
I would prefer adding it at cool down phase because it is volatile and some of will evaporate in high temperature, if added too early at product specially in large batches. -
Abdullah said:Phenoxyethanol is volatile and some of will evaporate in high temperature, if added too early at product specially in large batches.
Where did you read this?
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ggpetrov said:Abdullah said:Phenoxyethanol is volatile and some of will evaporate in high temperature, if added too early at product specially in large batches.
Where did you read this?
I don’t remember that.
Also, adding phenoxyethanol before emulsion is made can make the emulsion less stable.
I am currently using phenoxyethanol in leave on emulsion and other products.
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Euxyl PE9010 is stable up to 120°C. Which you won’t achieve if you’re making an emulsion (or any other standard product). So it is safe to use it in water phase and heat it up.
In my opinion, it is almost recommended to incorporate this kind of preservative as soon as possible to get the best action. -
9010 is not enough - you should add something for fungi.
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