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Paste Help Please
I’m having the toughest time with my matte paste. Trying to get the paste to leave my hands and coat the hair has caused many issues so far as I just completed my 71st batch, embarrassingly enough. I notice that if I have a decent batch that slips nicely after about 30 minutes the product softens and the texture begins to loosen significantly promoting fly-aways and it appears more like a fluffy nest in lieu of intentional chunky pieces. I would assume this has to do with the heat zone of my head and the shea butter content in my formula. After decreasing the butter, the product becomes profoundly difficult to apply. Any ideas? I am brand new to formulating and don’t know much of anything. I’m open to other emollients or ingredients that would help solve this issue. Thank you!
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3 Replies
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Hi, unfortunately there isn’t enough information of what’s in your formula and what you have done with your formula. Do you homogenize the mixture? Does it separate over time? If you can provide a rough list of your ingredients and give a rough percentage that would help immensely in identifying issues.
I would look up some similar products on the market you are trying to match and investigate some of their ingredients and what their function in the formula is.
I would also add some glycerin to help with application.
Goodluck.
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The last formula I ran is:
Aloe vera juice 42.019%
Shea Butter 5.836%
Kaolin 8.754%
PEG 8 Beeswax 10.213%
Carnauba Wax 3.793%
Candelilla Wax 6.711%
Polysorbate 80 4.961%
Grapeseed Oil 1.751%
Jojoba Oil 1.167%
Sweet Almond Oil 1.167%
Bentonite 4.377%
Phenoxyethanol 0.875%
Fragrance 2.626%
Sea Salt 1.167%
Silica 1.751%
Cetyl Alcohol 1.751%
Stearic Acid 1.080%
Phase A: Heat aloe vera juice to 71c.
Phase B: Heat shea butter, peg 8 beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, polysorbate 80, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, cetyl alcohol and stearic acid to 85c. Combine phase A and B and emulsify using an immersion stick blender on low. Cool to 65c.
Phase C: Mix bentonite, kaolin, sea salt and silica into the emulsion slowly.
Phase D: Add fragrance and phenoxyethanol, mix gently and pour into jars. let cool uncovered to 21c.
I do not have an overhead mixer or homogenizer. this is all done with a stick blender and im sure this is not the correct tool, but is all I have at the moment.
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I would trial removing the salt. This may contribute to a “salting out” effect on the water phase causing phase separation.
I am not to familiar with these formula’s so I do not want to offer alot more advice, but I would also look into how much fragrance you are adding as that is a lot at least compared to the amounts I am used to working with.
I am also sure poor homogenization would be contributing to some effect.
Another avenue you could look at is using a suspension polymer to try help stop separation.
Hopefully this advice has helped. let me know how you go.
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This reply was modified 1 day, 5 hours ago by kbaddack.
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This reply was modified 1 day, 5 hours ago by
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