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Optimal lipid composition for a topical formula - is there such a thing?
Lampe, Marilyn A., et al. “Human stratum corneum lipids: characterization and regional variations.” Journal of lipid research 24.2 (1983): 120-130.
1. Is there any point (proven or hypothetically) in emulating the stratum corneum lipid ratios in a topical formula? E.g. better hydration, moisturization, longer lasting effects.2. If 1 = Yes, what would be a cost efficient way to do this? E.g. use lanolin and add components missing from it, present in human skin?A bit confused about the use of topical ceramides for instance. Thoughts?
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9 Replies
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Good question and interesting info. I wish I had the brains to answer it.
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Anyone else?
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Theoretically it is an interesting concept trying to mimic the skins lipid ratios by using cosmetic ingredients, but I doubt it has any real benefits regarding moisturizatation etc. However, intuitively I would approach it in the same way you mentioned - by first have a look at animal fats (like lanolin), then modify the lipid profile.
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SK-Influx, sold by Evonik, can be what you’re looking for:
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It’s an interesting approach. Traditionally, we’ve approached this empirically/experimentally - what ingredient or ingredient combo feels nicest on the skin? What makes the skin smooth or supple? Recently, what reduces TEWL has made the list of questions.
Your question assumes that the optimum skin benefit will come from putting an excess of the skin’s natural lipid blend back onto the skin. I’m not sure that this will prove out experimentally, but I’d love to see some data about it. -
While it’s an interesting concept, I think this suffers from the naturalistic fallacy. Just because it’s the way nature made it doesn’t mean it’s the best way. There are lots of things humans have created that out perform evolution. For example, shoes are a much better way to protect feet than the skin we evolved down there.
The thing about the composition of skin is that it is more than just the individual components. It also matters how those components are structured. Putting oils on your skin that have exactly the same composition is like putting thread on a shirt that has a hole in it. The thread doesn’t do anything for the damaged shirt if it’s not stitched properly.But anyway, I don’t think these lipids have proven themselves as effective at moisturizing as petrolatum or mineral oil. -
It’s quite amusing that Perry and I have diametrically opposed views on petrolatum/mineral oil. I don’t believe that mineral oil has any place in skin creams because it is a completely foreign substance to our body, and secondly, it leaves a horrible greasy sensation that persists. I don’t think TEWL is a problem except in dry cold climates, and then, silicones make a better option for establishing a water loss barrier. Moisturising, for my products, means using carrier oils that will get the hydrosols into the skin as fast as possible, plus the benefits of the active lipids such as shea. I have found that “does NOT leave your skin greasy - absorbs quickly” is a real marketing plus.
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I don’t feel a very refined mineral oil leaves a greasier sensation than vegetable oils… In fact, I personally think it has a better “texture” than many vegetable oils. A good mineral oil spreads extremely well, isn’t tacky and wouldn’t need antioxidants to be preserved… I personally prefer mineral oil over natural oils in many cases.
Well, silicones are also “foreign substances”, I don’t think it’s a problem… -
I read the article and I find it very interesting that in contrary to common belief, the skin actually naturally contains 2-4% n-alkanes. However, the authors also admit the n-alkanes could origin from somewhere else, .i.e. cosmetics, (although very unlikely). Someone else has more info?
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