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Olivem1000 and Waxiness
Hello, I am working on a body lotion and Olivem1000 is the emulsifier I would like to use. This isn’t ideal because I don’t like the skin feel it leaves, but moisture wise it hydrates the skin for long hours.
The soapiness doesn’t bother me at all, my issue is that I feel like I dipped my finger in candle wax after I rub the cream on the skin. It is very dry, powdery and waxy. It may be a good matt finish for face creams to apply make up on, but for body cream not so much. I would much prefer a moist feeling even if it is an oily feeling!
To mitigate this waxy feeling I have combined it with glyceryl stearate citrate, which has an excellent skin feel on its own.
Together, the waxiness reduced but not by much. I have also tried Glyceryl Stearate SE without major improvement.
symbiomuls (Glyceryl Stearates Citrates; Cetearyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Caprylates) is an emulsifier that gave perfect skin feel, but it doesn’t keep the skin hydrates for as long as olivem1000 does.
My current stripped down testing formula for skin feel is:
1.5% olivem1000
1.5% glyceryl stearate citrate
3% shea butter
3% almond oil
4% coco caprylate
Rest: water + 3% glycerine + preservative.
Would you have any suggestions about improving the skin feel to make it more moist and less dry waxy? I considered trying this with Montanov 68, which is also good with regards to how well the skin stays supple after application.
Thank you
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7 Replies
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Use the emulsifier that gives the feel…and then build the rest into it. That is how it is done.
You can take 165…. void of texture (I call it a blank slate)….and literally build it into anything you can imagine. Much of the world is built on the back of 165….and the textures go from Yin to Yang…. black to white…. A to Z.
Work with the texturizers….the list is long and vast.
(Don’t ever ask OliveM 1000….. to feel nice. 😂 )
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You’re asking a lot of your emulsifier. Usually, we ask it to emulsify well…. (not much more). The haptics are built with other pieces.
Granted….as mentioned….there are certain emulsifiers…..that just destroy haptics…right out of the gate. 😉
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You can consider trying a less thickening emulsifier like graillotion mentioned. It depends on your choice, you can go with 165, or Montanov L or 202. Maybe you can also consider adding more humectants that has a different skin feel like Betaine.
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Sodium lactate is another in that category….leaving what is generally perceived as a pleasant after feel.
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Sodium lactate should also be fine but i didn’t suggest it because I’m not sure how electrolyte sensitive the emulsifier blends are, and if they may go overboard with it. Does it also produce a film on the surface like Betaine does? I find that it’s more penetrative or deeply hydrating instead.
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This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by jemolian.
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This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by
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Thanks all, I do use more humectants than glycerine, it is just the stripped down version for skinfeel that I removed them for testing. I agree the choice of emulsifier isn’t ideal. The reason I wanted to stay with Olivem1000 is because in this particular case the skin reacted really well to it, and it is a tricky case of eczema. This isn’t a cream I’m working for mass market, but for an individual. I have tested with Montanov68+SSC since I posted and it feels better than Olivem for sure. I will see how the skin reacts to Montanov, I imagine it is gentle enough? Key criteria is for it to be super gentle and little chance of irritation as possible. That’s why I’m happy to accept soapiness for example.
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While I am on the subject of skin. I always associated nonionic emulsifiers to be milder on damaged skin than anionic. Is this something I imagined or is there a real difference?
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