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Olivem 1000 rub-in issue
I came across this video on YouTube where they explain why we experience the soaping effect and how to remedy it. Unfortunately when I tried this method myself, by adding glyceryl stearate at 2 %, it actually seemed to make the rub-in issue worse. Does anyone have any idea why this isn’t working for me? I’ll include the formula below.
- 83,5 water
- 1,0 phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin
- 0,5 hydroxyethylcellulose
- 10,0 fractionated coconut oil
- 5,0 Olivem 1000
- 2,0 glyceryl stearate
- Steps: Hydrated HEC, added preservative, heated both phases to 70 degrees, combined and mixed with high shear.
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13 Replies
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Try adding 1% dimethicone for rub in,
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Thank you for your suggestion DrBob. I don’t mind using silicones in my formulas but they shouldn’t be necessary in order to receive a quick rub-in time. So I’m curious why the glyceryl stearate didn’t fix it.
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I don’t know of any reason it should?
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if it’s a real problem, try using a different emulsifier: prevention is better than cure
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This is the very reason that many have turned from Olivem 1000. It takes a very light touch (build viscosity with the Glyceryl Stearate, use the lowest level of Olivem possible) and do not be afraid of using esters with the Formulation to limit the soaping. 1% Dimethicone is a tried and true way to minimize it with not just this but also other emulsifiers that cause soaping. Saying it shouldn’t be necessary is missing that point. In the end, you will likely have some end users who will still comment on the effect even with the best-actualized Formulation. So, in the end, take Bill’s advice and use this as the motivation to use one of the many newer and superior emulsifiers. The market has come a long way since Olivem 1000 was introduced.
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Glyceryl stearate is prone to soaping. You might try using cetearyl alcohol instead.
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Regardless of which emulsifier you use ,numerous large scale i.e. 400 panelists in blind tests consistently picked lotion/cream with Dimethicone over same product without for penetration/rub in.Tests were conducted on a global basis(at least Asia/Pacific and Europe and particularly UK)
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Olivem 1000 yields the most stable emulsions with 2% Glyceryl Stearate, 0.3% Xanthan Gum and as @Belassi pointed out either Cetearyl Alcohol or Cetyl Alcohol will help reduce soaping. Follow @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ’s advice regarding Dimethicone or use Isoamyl Laurate if you want a natural alternative.
I generally combine Olivem 1000 with RitaMulse and Isoamyl Laurate and it produces really nice, light emulsions with no soaping.
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@Bill_Toge Unfortunately it always happens. I’ve tried several self-emulsifying systems like BTMS-50, Simulgreen 18-2, lesser known ones, and also made my own by doing HLB calculation. Fortunately I’ve gotten some good advice now that will hopefully fix it.
@Microformulation I have C12-15 alkyl benzoate on hand so I will definitely experiment with that to see if it helps. On LotionCrafter they say “[it] provides creams with an excellent spreadability with no soapy effect” which is the reason I bought it, but I guess it depends on the formula.
Getting newer and fancy emulsifiers is tricky seeing as I’m just doing this as a hobby and not affiliated with any company. But I do have Emulsifying Wax (Cetearyl alcohol and Polysorbate 60) at my disposal so maybe that will work better.@Belassi I don’t have pure cetearyl alcohol but I do have cetyl alcohol so that might work!
@DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ very interesting. It appears that most people don’t mind dimethicone if the sensorials are satisfying. I have dimethicone handy so I will try that too.
@MarkBroussard have you worked with RitaMulse alone? If so, how does it compare to Olivem 1000?
Thank you all for the great advices, it looks like I’ll have plenty of things to experiment with, just hope there are enough hours in the day! :#
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Yes, I have used RitaMulse solo, but my favorite is the combination of RitaMulse/Olivem1000/Isoamyl Laurate … if you’re familiar with the Molton Brown lotions, you get a very similar sensorial.
RitaMulse solo is easier to work with than Olivem1000 solo is my experience.
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@MarkBroussard RitaMulse is the INCI NAME: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate ?
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Yes, that is correct
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MarkBroussard Thanks a lot. I have bought 4 oz of it and will do some experiments. I use Olivem1000 Montanov68, and still happy with the results. I am working on a under eye treatment formula now, but did not faced the described problem with Olivem1000.
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