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o/w serum
Hi,
I am formulating o/w serum (oil content 6% nonpolar oil).
I tried various emulsifier but i still received same result - after 1 or 2 weeks in 40 degrees emulsion start to separate - visible run-off on the sides). I tried Imwitor 375 (5%) with cetearyl alcohol (0,5-1%), dermofeel NC MB (2-4%), or TEGO CARE PBS 6 MB (2-4). (For now my favorite imwitor 375 but i know that this material do not like electrolites, but i dont plan to add any in my emulsion). As rheology agent I tied to use xanthan gum or siligel. Also tried variuos preservatives, At first then I make, I received stable emulsion (3000 rpm 10 min stable), but after I add to 40 degrees i received the stability problem. In all samples after one week i saw some bubbles or run off on the sides.
Also tried lysolecithin but I do not like it. Now i work only with product base without any active ingredients. For now only oil, rheology modifier, preservative, glycerin and emulsifiers.
As I understand because separation occur on the top (first of all visible run-off on the side and few weeks later visable separation on the top but only few milimeters) it should be water separation. But the problem is i do not want to add more xanthan gum or siligel (i tried these materials separately) because then i receive gel but not low viscosity serum.
Maybe someone can suggest how to solve this problem? I need brainstorm with someone because i work with this base for 4 months and still the same results 🙂
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2 Replies
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Do you have pictures? Since water is usually more dense than your oil phase, when separation occurs, water tends to go to the bottom, and over time, you’ll see how how it grows more and more. If what you see on top is a clear layer, then those are your nonpolar oils. It’s best if you pictures of what you’re seeing.
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Yesterday after evaluation of all samples I was so angry and throw away all the samples and make a new one. If the same problem occur in weeks, I try to show. As I said in all samples runaways start from the top and go down to the bottom . After 2 weeks all these runaways disappear, but i receive some transparent bubbles on the top. So, yes, maybe it’s more likely that it’s oils..
maybe nonpolar oil separation occur because I use too much emulsifier? For now i add 6% of squalane and I use from medium to high value in the range specified by the manufacturer of emulsifier. I saw that if I add a small quantity of xanthan gum, then i receive strong separation at 3000 rpm. But if I add more I only receive a small drop on the bottom at 3000 rpm. but if i try to add more or less emulsifier - nothing changes. I dont know.. maybe my emulsifier choices are not the best to make a liquid o/w serum….
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