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Non aqueous gel
Hi there,
I am trying to create a face serum with no water.
Only Silicone and Oils.My challenge is to create stable emulsifier / thickener.
Do you guys have any direction? I am thinking about lecithin. The usual polymers(sepi’s) won’t hydrate without water.
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10 Replies
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Check THIS out. I think the products by Ajinomoto sound really cool though I’ve never tried them.
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If oils are non-polar and you are looking for a clear product you need either micronised silica or silica dimethyl silylate.
This one works with silicones https://www.ulprospector.com/en/eu/PersonalCare/Detail/818/235792/Covasilic-15 -
Thank - I found a source for Silica Dimethyl Silylate. I will try to find more options
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I’ve used oilkemia 5S with pretty good success (INCI Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79), though the feel was about what I expected from an oil gel- could have been my lack of silica and poor oil combo.
The ajinomoto stuff does look awesome but you have to heat it very high -
Just keep in mind the thickening effect depends on polarity. The product I mentioned won’t thicken polar ester but will work with silicones and some hydrocarbons. Much worse with non-polar esters.
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+1 for the Ajinomoto gelatinisers, they work in a huge variety of solvents
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It is a bit complicated to find Ajinomoto stuff however I will receive soon 1. Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer
and 2. Cyclopentasiloxane (and) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer -
I received today from makingcosmetics silicone gel Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone/vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer
After mixing with other silicons and oils including mineral oil looks like a bad product
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If you’re using dimethicone at a significant percentage you could simply use a higher viscosity grade - they go up to 100,000+ cSt
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dimethicone + Cyclopentasiloxane had the ‘best’ outcome. thanks
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