Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating No Rinse Foam

  • No Rinse Foam

    Posted by AVisotsky on September 5, 2018 at 12:08 am

    Hello! 
    Could you please help me understand the role of each ingredient in this product: Purified Water, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Polysorbate 20, Quaternium 15 that claims to remove dirt and is also a leave-on solution for personal use, I know the first two :) what are the last two for?

    AVisotsky replied 6 years, 3 months ago 5 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 5, 2018 at 9:31 am

    Polysorbate 20 is a solubiser. In this formula, it is dissolving oils (make up and sebum) and allows to wipe them off. Quaternium 15 is both a surfactant and preservative, but here it probably serves as a preservative. I don’t like the idea of keeping surfactants (even betaine) on the skin. This product should be rised off.

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 5, 2018 at 6:04 pm

    @ngarayeva001 , thank you! Are there alternative options that could create foam and are safe for something like this?

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 5, 2018 at 6:07 pm

    Also, could you please share your concerns about betaine? Thank you!

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 5, 2018 at 8:46 pm

    No concens about cocamidopropyl betaine at all. It’s one of the mildest surfactants that is used for baby products. But even as mild as it is, I don’t think surfactants should be left on skin. They should be rinsed off. This is my personal opinion and there are many leave on products with surfactants. If you want to boost the foam you can add decyl glucoside. It’s also a mild surfactant. The only thing I don’t like about this formula is the preservative. This one maybe sensitizing for some skin types. Consider parabens, or if you want to go ‘paraben free’ phenoxyethanol.

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 5, 2018 at 9:37 pm

    ngarayeva001 Thank you for the suggestion. I’m sorry for asking too many questions, but maybe you could explain why surfactants should not be left on the skin?I can’t seem to find any information online about it

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 5, 2018 at 10:23 pm
    Actually, there is an old Formulation that we used a great deal to create a non-aeresol foam product that uses a Betaine derivative (Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine, TEGO Betaine 810). We used the basic concepts of this formulation to create an OTC Foam Leave-on product that passed RIPT and HET-CAM with great results
  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 6, 2018 at 4:37 pm

    Thank you @Microformulation , 2% is enough to form a stable foam? We add it at 10%. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 6, 2018 at 4:57 pm

    That is the Evonik starting Formulation. We did make some changes to it, but I can’t really go very far into that topic due to NDA’s.

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 6, 2018 at 9:30 pm

    Got ya! Thank you for expalining

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 7, 2018 at 12:26 am
    I will say that the Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose acts as a foam booster and we spent the most time optimizing this aspect.
  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 8, 2018 at 5:05 pm

    Thank you! Would you say it is safer as a leave on than betaine? 

  • Fekher

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 5:10 am

    @AVisotsky for CAPB it is actually synthetic amphoter surfactant so it is not naturel surfactant, however it is founded even in baby shampoo.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 12:34 pm
    @Fekher There are numerous naturally derived betaines now, for example, Evonik’s “Betain P 50 C.” These products even have a COSMOS certification.
  • OldPerry

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 12:48 pm

    I’ll just point out that the general notion of “no surfactants in leave on products” is not a good one to follow.

    Every emulsifier is a surfactant.

    Almost every skin cream & moisturizer that is left on skin has a surfactant in it.

  • Fekher

    Member
    September 12, 2018 at 1:18 pm

    @Microformulation that is good and new information for me thanks for it.

  • AVisotsky

    Member
    September 14, 2018 at 7:46 pm

    Thanks, @Perry, good to know.

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