Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating No pearlescent effect with GDS

  • No pearlescent effect with GDS

    Posted by Abu-Hafss on November 12, 2024 at 2:37 am

    Hi

    I am working on a High-foam Body Wash formulation, as below:

    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - 10%
    Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate - 10%
    Coco Betaine - 10%
    Coconut Oil - 5%
    GDS - 2%
    NaCl - 1.2%
    Fragrance - q.s.
    Preservative - q.s.
    Water - q.s. to 100%

    The foaming and thickness is as per desire but could not get pearlescent effect with GDS at 2%, 2.5% and 3%.

    I shall highly appreciate expert suggestions.

    Thanks in advance.

    ketchito replied 2 days, 8 hours ago 2 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    November 13, 2024 at 7:39 am

    Usually, you need to cool down slowly for crystals to properly form. How are you doing your cooling down process?

    • Abu-Hafss

      Member
      November 13, 2024 at 9:16 am

      I usually put the heated container in tap water (about 25 °C) and stir the mixture gently and slowly until it reaches about 40 °C.

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 14, 2024 at 7:54 am

    Ok. Can you try with only 1%, instead of 2%?

    • Abu-Hafss

      Member
      November 14, 2024 at 8:38 am

      Sure. I’ll try and get back with the results.

      In the meantime, will it make any difference if I include about 5% Glycerine? Or replace Oil with Glycerine?

  • Abu-Hafss

    Member
    November 15, 2024 at 5:49 am

    With 1% GDS, the viscosity dropped drastically, almost like water. The opacity also turned to translucent, hence it was bit difficult to observe the pearlescent effect.

    I added 1+1% Versathix to restore the viscosity to my desired level, the translucency to opaque. I could notice very faint pearlescent effect.

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 15, 2024 at 7:21 am

    Then there’s something wrong with your pearlizer or the process. Your pearlizer shouldn’t interfere with the viscosity, since what should happen is that it crystalizes out of the solution, hence, no interacion should happen. Another chance is that you make a pear premix with water and surfactant, let it cool, and then add it to the rest of the bulk. You could also use a ready-made cold processable pearlizer.

  • Abu-Hafss

    Member
    November 15, 2024 at 8:36 am

    I changed the procedure.
    SLSr+SCI+CAPB+2g NaCl+25g Water - Surfactant Phase
    Oil + GDS - Emulsifier Phase
    Water (remaining) - Water Phase

    After the GDS melted and dissolved in Oil, I added the Water phase into it and mixed thoroughly while cooling, to form a thick (syrup like) emulsion.

    Next when all the surfactant phase was clear, I cooled it to room temperature. Finally, I added the emulsion into it.

    The result is same. Again I had to add 2% Versathix to get my desired viscosity. It seems that previously the viscosity I have been getting was because of the higher percentage of the GDS.

    BTW, the GDS I am using is (off white color) in powder form, not flakes. When melting, its smell reminds me of some bakery. 🙂

  • Abu-Hafss

    Member
    November 21, 2024 at 7:37 am

    I am considering to try some emulsifier like Glyceryl Oleate or Cetearyl Glucoside. Would that be helpful in getting creamy/pearlescent texture? Considering following, what percentages of GDS and Glyceryl Oleate should be used:

    SCI - 10%
    SL Sarcosinate - 10%
    CAPB - 10%
    Sunflower Oil - 5%
    HEC - 1%

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 22, 2024 at 8:01 am

    I’d check some patents on how to do the process to form crystals. One way is to use a premix of some of your anionic surfactants, the pearlizer and water. You heat, mix and slowly cool down. You should get a viscous white fluid. You should add this at room temperature to your batch, once you added all the surfactants.

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