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Need help with this formula, please
Hello ,
I am new to the forum. English is not my first language and I hope you understand what I am trying to say . I made this simple face cream a week ago and the first day I thought it was the perfect cream for my dry sensitive skin. But the next day I felt like my face skin was tightening after applying the cream, a really uncomfortable feeling.
Oil phase :
Olivem 1000 ( Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate) 6%
Caprylic / capric triglycerides 5%
Dicaprylyl carbonate 1%
Olive squalane 2%
Olive oil 10%Aqueous phase:
Distilled water
Glycerin 2%
Xanthan gum 0.2%Actives:
Tocopherol 0.5 %
Calendula officinalis CO2 extract 0.5 %
Fragrance 0.1 % ( Cosmetic fragrance)
Cosgard ( Benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, aqua) 0.6%and drops of Lactic acid to adjust the pH from 6.5 to 5.5
I divided the cream and added to half of it Cucumber extract and Tea tree oil, and the result was the same.( replacing Calendula extract and cosmetic Fragrance)
What should I change ? For the moment I can provide only bitter almond oil, sesame oil, apricot kernel oil, black seed oil and pumpkin seed oil, but the extra virgin olive oil I usually use to make my own cosmetic products is really low cost and very convenient.
Should I replace the terrible smelling Cosgard which I bought only because it was Ecocert approved? Well, I really need help. Thank you!
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11 Replies
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First try using citric acid to adjust Ph and do a knockout with Cosqard first.
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Thank you for the answer.
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How about the viscosity?
Maybe you can try a knockout with Glycerin, lowering it or substitute with Propylen glycol. For some formulations I feel inconvenient with Glycerin.
Or lowering the Olive oil.
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Thank you Danger! I made the cream before with no glycerin but with montanov 68( Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) and the result was the same. My relatives are saying the cream is fine, so something is wrong with my skin. I am going to test the cream without preservative for some days and than lowering the olive oil. The company I buy the ingredients from claims that lactic acid is better than citric acid for it has hydrating properties, so DrBOB I can not believe I do not have citric acid at all and have to make another order only to buy it.
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my prime suspect is xanthan gum, as it’s a film former; try reducing it, or using another rheology modifier in its place
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the extra virgin olive oil I usually use to make my own cosmetic products is really low cost and very convenient.
- and about the worst oil to use on your skin. Use a better one. -
Belassi has a point, olive oil in higher % can dry out skin. I never use it in my creams.
Also agree with Bill. I hardly use xanthan anymore now that I have several polymers like some carbomers from Lubrizol and Sepimax Zen.
The sensorials are so much better than with xanthan.I also hate the smell of Geogard 221/Cosgard. It also interacts with anionics like carbomers^ (causes discoloration).
Can you get Phenonip for example? It’s broad spectrum and quite easy to work with. Or Germaben II. These are the two preservatives I use the most, since I’ve finally found a supplier that sells these. -
KEM NAT is a fine preservative and complies fully with “natural” and has no odour.
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Thank you everyone! Tested the cream with no preservative and the tightening effect is reduced, but I am going to change completely the oil phase because there is still something wrong. I didn’t know that olive oil was the worst to use on the skin. I live in Albania and here we use a special olive oil from wild olives ( can’t find the name in English) that is strongly recommended only for hair and skin and it really works for wrinkles, dark spots, premature grey hair etc.
I am trying to make Ecobio creams for me and my relatives so can’t use Phenonip or Germaben.
Thank you Belassi for the Kem Nat alternative. I was thinking to buy Spectrastat G2-N or Dermosoft 1388 ECO plus Dermosoft GMCY but I am going to get informations about it and compare them all. -
here we use a special olive oil from wild olives ( can’t find the name in English) that is strongly recommended only for hair and skin
If you check the literature, you will discover that using olive oil on the hair (i.e., scalp) encourages the growth of a yeast called Malessezia - which is one of the primary causes of DANDRUFF.
Olive oil is the best oil to use in your DIET. It is not suitable for topical use.
Spectrastat is an excellent preservative and I have used it with success, but I think you’ll discover that the minimum order is prohibitively big, unless you are quite a large company. -
Thank you Belassi! I will certainly read more about olive oil for topical use.
I can buy from Skinchakra small quantity ( like 50 gr) but it has only Spectrastat G2-N and not all the Spectrastat line from Inolex.
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