Formulating

Need help with solubulising a perfume

Posted by myraqureshi on December 18, 2018 at 6:12 pm

Im hoping you can help me with something I am struggling with.

We have formulated a Lotion and we have a safety assessment for it. Last week we made a first batch with it (not too big - approx 40 KG).

However I feel that the fragrance even at 0.3 percent (which is what we used, whilst we have a safety assessment at 0.4%) is mixing properly visibly - However when I apply the cream its causing a bit of itchiness/ burning (and I know its perfume related because I have sensitive skin and I can always tell if its fragrance related). However, I would imagine this only happens because the fragrance isn’t properly solubulizing in the lotion (even though its only 0.3%)

Im wondering three things:

(i) Its an oil in water emulsion. (Even though it is a lotion.). Is it possible that the fragrance isn’t solubulising correctly in the lotion?

(ii) Do you think I should add hydrolyzed castor oil (Croduret) to the fragrance in a new batch to see if it will solubulise better (even though I dont understand why I would use it considering its an emulsion)

(iii) How can I salvage this batch? We mixed it with a homogenizer for over 40 minutes. If I add a solubuliser to it now, will it help?

We haven’t had this issue with lab scale samples and I am really worried. Its also microbiologically compliant as we had it tested.

Was wondering if you can shed some light on to this with your experience? We are all a bit spooked and helpless!

Im attaching the recipe below

Thanks so much for your assistance.

Sr.No.	NAME OF INGREDIENTS	INCI NAME/BOTANICAL NAME	CAS No.	FUNCTIONS	CONTENT RATIO (% W/W)
	PHASE A
1	DISTILLED WATER	AQUA	7732-18-5	SOLVENT	82.00%
2	GLYCERIN	GLYCERIN	56-81-5	Humectant	2.00%
3	ETHYLENEDIAMINE TETRAACETIC ACID	DISODIUM EDTA	64-02-8	VISCOSITY CONTROLLING	0.20%
4	ALOE VERA POWDER	Aloe barbadensis	85507-69-3	Moisturizing	0.10%
5	ACRYPOL ELT 20	Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acylate Crosspolymer		thickening agent	0.20%
	PHASE B
6	CETYL ALCOHOL	Cetyl Alcohol	36653-82-4	VISCOSITY ENHANCER	1.00%
7	XANTHAM GUM	Xanthan Gum	11138-66-2	Binding	0.30%
8	COSMOWAX D	CETEARETH-20 AND CETEARYL ALCOHOL	68439-49-6, 67762-27-0, 8005-44-5	EMULSIFIER	1.00%
9	GLYCERYL MONOCTERATE	Glyceryl stearate	31566-31-1	EMULSIFIER	2.00%
10	JOJOBA OIL	ORGANIC SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL	61789-91-1.	Emollient	2.00%
11	SAFFLOWER OIL	ORGANIC HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL	8001-21-6	Emollient	4.00%
12	COCONUT OIL	ORGANIC COCOS NUCIFERA OIL	8001-31-8	Skin conditioning	2.00%
13	SHEA BUTTER	BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER	194043-92-0	Skin conditioning	2%
	PHASE C
14	VITAMIN E	Tocopheryl Acetate	58-95-7	Antioxidant	0.5%
15	SALIGUARD EHGP	Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin	122-99-6 & 71445-33-9	Preservative	0.5%
15	SALIGUARD BDHA	Benzyl Alcohol (and) Dehydroacetic Acid	100-51-6 & 520-45-6	Preservative	0.30%
16	FRAGRANCE	PERFUME	N/A	PERFUMING	0.30%

Vnnil replied 5 years, 7 months ago 9 Members · 11 Replies

11 Replies

belassi

Member
December 18, 2018 at 9:35 pm

One thing I discovered early - the hard way - is that there are two classes of fragrance. For personal use, and for industrial use. I went to a local factor and bought some fragrances and one of them (I found out later) was supposed to be for industrial floor cleaning products.
The limitation you quoted of 0.4% makes me think that it’s likely your fragrance is an industrial one.
Microformulation

Member
December 19, 2018 at 12:59 am

When did EDTA become viscosity controlling? What did I miss?
DAS

Member
December 19, 2018 at 5:50 am

1) It’s possible but unlikely. You’ll see the droplets in a stability test.
2) I’d make other tests first.
3) The batch is probably fine, but no, you can’t separate the fragrance.

If you are willing, you should make a patch test on yourself to ensure it’s the fragrance. If it is, contact your supplier, explain this to them and change it.

Keep in mind a fragrance can have over 100 components. Many will induce allergic reactions to some people even at low levels. It’s important you work with a company with experience in formulating fragrances for cosmetic products. Small companies usually make a few simple formulas and buy and dillute the hard ones. If they can’t give you tech support find a better supplier.

Also consider making trials on smaller batches, I wouldn’t test a fragrance in more than 1 or 2kg.
Gunther

Member
December 19, 2018 at 4:26 pm

You need to conduct a test with no fragrance to make sure it’s the fragrance that’s causing itchiness.
Preferably, a blind test where test subjects don’t know what formulation they’re testing.
vjay

Member
December 21, 2018 at 11:43 am

you need to use perfume with standard suppliers like IBERCHEM, ROBERTET, ETC.., You should also ask perfume supplier for the IFRA & Allergen Certifiacate and in IFRA you are able to see the dossage of your perfume in your product.
AlaattinCabuk

Member
December 22, 2018 at 12:47 am

Probably you did it, but i want to ask did you adjust the ph level.
Dr Catherine Pratt

Member
December 25, 2018 at 9:26 am

Can you make a small sample without the fragrance and if there is no itch, then maybe you could double the formula as it would be a concentration problem. Also find the pH. Or if the fragrance is not solubilising then it will pour straight onto your skin (Ouch). I cannot see your solubilser in the list?
Dr Catherine Pratt

Member
December 25, 2018 at 9:46 am

You could add your solubiliser (which one are you using), and maybe add more Vit E and see what happens?
myraqureshi

Member
April 26, 2019 at 9:38 pm

Microformulation said:

When did EDTA become viscosity controlling? What did I miss?

Sorry that’s a faux pas. It’s chelating agent.
myraqureshi

Member
April 26, 2019 at 9:41 pm

vjay said:

you need to use perfume with standard suppliers like IBERCHEM, ROBERTET, ETC.., You should also ask perfume supplier for the IFRA & Allergen Certifiacate and in IFRA you are able to see the dossage of your perfume in your product.
Vnnil

Member
April 27, 2019 at 1:48 am

Is ACRYPOL ELT 20 pre-neutralised? I don’t see a neutraliser in the formula.