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Need help regarding improving formulation
I formulated a gentle face wash but I don’t like the viscosity. My current formulation is
Cashew and Oat Milk 85%
Sodium gluconate 0.10%
Xanthum Gum 0.10%
Vegetable Glycerine 3%
Cetyl Alcohol 1.30%
Glyceryl MonoStearate 2%
Mango Butter 2%
Apricot Oil 4%
Jojoba Oil 2%
CAPB 2%
Decyl Glucoside 2%
Salicylic Acid 0.30%
Benzyl Alcohol, Sorbic Acid, Glycerin, Salicylic Acid 0.80%
Tocopherol 0.40%
I am thinking of increasing the percentage of Xanthum gum to 1%, CAPB and Decyl glucoside to 5% as I want to increase the viscosity and cleansing properties.
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7 Replies
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Increasing xanthan gum makes sense- 0.1% is not enough to really contribute, and it may not hydrate as fully in a nut-milk based system. I hope this is for personal use only?
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Remove oils and butters and add some SLES and nacl
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Yummy … bacteria cannot wait to dig in 🙂 😀
First of all … what is your budged for this formula? 😀
You need to realise all those butters, milk and oil will go down the drain. Actually, some will stick to your face and not really clean it as there is almost nothing to support cleansing.
Total active surfactant matter will be around 1.6%, however it will be killed/busy with taking care of all those butters and oils.
Let’s rewrite the formula, save you some money and make a nice gentle cleanser, ok?
To 100% Water
0.2 Chelating agent
0.3-0.5-ish - Xanthan Gum depending on grade
2-% ish Glycerin just for slurry of XG (but you don’t actually need XG, you can reach nice viscosity with Cetyl alcohol/Cetearyl alcohol)
3-6% Cetyl alcohol (or do you have Cetearyl alcohol? Might be better option)
5-10% Cocamidopropyl Betaine
3-5% Decyl Glucoside
Preservative (Highest recommended/allowed input)
pH to be compatible with all the ingredients especially preservative - aim for as low as possible.
To make it more milder, add superfatting agents if you have any on hand. You can add polyquat-7 for also for example.
I would also look for anionic surfactant - this would be the main cleansing agent. Then support it with amphoteric and nonionic. Remember you do not need high active matter input for face wash as it is a small area. Aim for 3-5%.
If you would also get salt responsive anionic surfactant, thickening would become way easier. 🙂
Hope this helps?
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Thank you so much for your response. I will keep all these points in mind. This was formulated by someone else as a gentle cleanser. I am a production chemist. I saw the formulation and was not happy with the viscosity and the surfactant. This clears a lot of things for me.
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By some mommy blogger I believe. Please do not try to replicate everything you see.
Main purpose of cleanser it to clean .. not to add to your skin - that is what toners, serums, creams etc are for.
You should have your development brief and you should go with that.
If your customer wants a gentle cleanser, look for gentle anionic surfactant (isethionates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, glutamates … ), pair it with amphoteric and nonionic, add superfatting agent or polyquats and you are sorted. No need for fancy milks etc .. you can add them at 0.01% for marketing and that is it.
Good luck with your formulating 🙂
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Thank you so much for your response. Is the CAPB and decyl glucoside % fine or should I increase it?
No. I am making this for a personal care brand. Was testing it out for myself. Is there any other feedback you would like to give?
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Soo far to be acceptable formulation, increase the level of xanthan gum, the level of surfactants and decrease or eliminate oil phase they are just waste of money and efficiency of product.
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