Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Natural Surfactants

  • Natural Surfactants

    Posted by cindyhr on October 1, 2019 at 7:30 pm

    I am making a self tanner using two natural surfactants, Coco Betain 2% and Decyl Glucoside 4%. I only have 1.25% oil in the formula. I notice that the product turns brown after a few days.  I have even added a chelator to stop pH movement.  

    Could the problem be with Coco Betain? Does it oxidize quickly?

    cindyhr replied 4 years, 11 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Microformulation

    Member
    October 1, 2019 at 7:37 pm
    Are you using DHA? If so, that is the likely issue. The distributors offer guidance on how to best work with DHA (pH, metallic ions). A chelator helps, but not because it stops pH movement. That is not what a chelator does. It would help by decreasing metallic ions.  Remember, EDTA in a no-no as far as chelators go.

  • cindyhr

    Member
    October 2, 2019 at 4:19 pm

    I am using DHA and Erythrutose. I ordered samples of a DHA product that has Sodium Metabisulfite and just some Sodium Metabisulfite by itself. Thanks so much for your input. This product is amazing and almost ready to launch if I can just get the color stable.

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 2, 2019 at 7:29 pm

    Do you use cocoyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine? Fairly often, coco betaine is in fact cocamidopropyl betaine and not real cocoyl betaine. CAPB is an amide and hence may, under certain conditions, react with DHA and erythrulose. Also, both may contain impurities (reaction intermediates such as dimethyl glycine or dimethylaminopropylamine) which have a free amino group to result in some colouration of the product. You might want to contact your supplier regarding more precise information regarding composition/contamination of your coco betaine. Or just try a small batch without coco betaine (doesn’t need to be physically stable or anything) and one with only DHA, erythrulose and coco betaine to see whether or not this ingredient causes an issue. If it doesn’t, you might have too much light in your product??

  • cindyhr

    Member
    October 3, 2019 at 5:53 pm

    Thank you! I’ll try a batch with Coco Betain, DHA and Erythrulose and see if it changes colors.

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