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Natural equivalents for synthetic emollients with awesome texture
Hi, recently tried a sample of this lip mask and was quite taken with its texture: unctuos, glidy, lubricious, thick, non-greasy coating that takes hours to absorb (overnight mask).
I looked at its ingredient list and it is 5 miles long, and full of synthetics. I am a 95% ish natural formulator, so the challenge is identifying natural options for a texture like that. The problem is that I am totally unfamiliar with these synthetic viscosity controlling and emollient ingredients so I started researching them, but without ever having worked with them I can’t easily think of natural replacements. Please help.
They are:
1. Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer (oil gellants).
I’m guessing similar to Cosmedia Gel (Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate), or Tixogel CCT (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Bentonite (and) Propylene Carbonate), but those are not natural…
Not sure how Cera Bellina or Glyceryl dibehenate compare to it…
(I can’t seem to un-bold this…)
2. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (synthetic liquid oil that can replace mineral oil or silicone oils).
Something like Luxglide N350 maybe (Diheptyl Succinate (and) Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer)?
Not in this formula, but of interest
3. Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (thick paste-like emollient ester).
Pomegarnate or Acai sterols?
Not that similar, but maybe Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Caprylate Caprate?
and
4. Isononyl Isononanoate (rich creamy ester with non-greasy skin feel. Combined with #1 it makes a gel called Versagel® MN 1600 T
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11 Replies
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For the Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, it can depend on the type used. Normally i use it to replace my Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride in some of the test formulas.
For the Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, it’s a lanolin replacement, so other sterols you mentioned would be fine. You can perhaps also consider other lanolin replacements like Veg-Lanolin. It goes by a few names, the INCI is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (and) Glyceryl Rosinate (and) Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables.
For the Isononyl Isononanoate, other light esters will do, like Coco-Caprylate/Caprate.
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@jemolian: thank you!! The lanolin replacement suggestion really helped. I can’t find it from my suppliers, but maybe orange peel wax would work too.
I read that isononyl is rich and creamy, though I’ve never seen it. Is coco caprylate/caprate also rich and creamy? I thought it was light/medium.
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For the lanolin replacement, if you can’t get any of the sterols or the Veg-Lanolin, you can just use any paste type emollient that has better water retaining properties. The similarity between all of the mentioned is just that, if you look into the data sheets, you will be able to see.
For the Isononyl Isononanoate, it largely depends on how much you use really. It’s a light ester, but if you prefer rich and creamy, you can perhaps choose a more medium or slightly heavier ester, or a combination for that effect.
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Anca_Formulator said:@jemolian: thank you!! The lanolin replacement suggestion really helped. I can’t find it from my suppliers, but maybe orange peel wax would work too.I read that isononyl is rich and creamy, though I’ve never seen it. Is coco caprylate/caprate also rich and creamy? I thought it was light/medium.
I assume you are in the US….and I’m gonna pull a Perry on you… Just buy Isoamyl laurate from FSS….and you won’t be able to tell a difference in formula with all the other options.
You can also buy the pomegranate sterols there as well….very similar to Vaseline. I also use the K-20W Floratech Jojoba esters as part of a natural barrier function…and the previously discussed squalane wax from Jedwards.
Toss is a few ester type waxes of MM and Cetyl Palmitate…and you are well on your way. Finish with a spritz of dimethicone, and a splash of cyclomethicone….and you’ve got something. (And since definition of ‘natural’ is fluid….have fun passing them off as natural.
)Good Luck.
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Anca_Formulator said:@jemolian: thank you!! The lanolin replacement suggestion really helped. I can’t find it from my suppliers, but maybe orange peel wax would work too.I read that isononyl is rich and creamy, though I’ve never seen it. Is coco caprylate/caprate also rich and creamy? I thought it was light/medium.
Are you also trying to stay Vegan? If so, you might want to consider this: Most all synthetic ingredients are Vegan, so it’s kind of a nonsensical term in the context of cosmetic products. And, I laugh when I see ads for Vegan eyeshadow and mascara!
I look at it this way: The bees are not hurt at all by you using beeswax … they will make the beeswax regardless of whether or not it is used in a cosmetic product. The sheep will be shorn regardless and they are not harmed in the process, so nothing wrong with Lanolin. Beeswax and lanolin are great natural ingredients that outperform most other ingredients in certain applications. So, I might suggest you open up your mind to ignoring Vegan as a qualifier in your product development.
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I’ve found a couple of useful substitutes for petroleum-based ingredients in colour cosmetics - Pelemol P3D from Phoenix Chemical (INCI: Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer) has the anti-lubricant properties of a high-viscosity silicone oil, while Viamerine 10,000 from Aldivia (INCI: Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides) has adhesive properties similar to a high molecular weight polyisobutene resin
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@Graillotion: Bork bork bork! (swedish Chef) 😉
Thank you for your input. I have a lot of esters so down the rabbit hole I went with a number of combinations/permutations.
I made a few versions with things like Natrasil (Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables), Pomegranate Seed Oil (so luscious) and Pomegranate Sterols, Cera Bellina,
Berry wax, Myrica Fruit Wax, Myristyl Myristate, Sensolene (Ethylhexyl Olivate), Jojoba Esters 30 and 60…The sensory part that’s giving me trouble is whatever gives it that cushiony occlusive coating at the end that feels like lip gloss. I assume that’s the high viscosity silicone ? It’s the kiss of dimethcone/cyclomethicone that turns the frog into a prince…
Thank you @Bill_Toge for the substitutions you suggested. I am really curious about the Pelemol P3D. I ordered a sample.
@MarkBroussard: I too laugh when I see vegan skincare, and I agree with your points. I love beeswax and would not give that up…
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@Anca_Formulator I’m guessing the cushiony feel you’re wanting is coming from the Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer. These are components in Versagel which is sold as a lip gloss base along with the Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (that you add other oils, pigments etc to)… I haven’t tried it although was thinking to try it in a body cream. It’s very easily found for purchase in small amounts online - maybe worth you buying just for something to compare other ingredients to!
I have several of the thick, tacky, adhesive “natural” ingredients mentioned in this thread, as my skin tends to like the lanolin-like moisturisation/protection they give. But none feel cushiony like lip gloss, which is what I am assuming Versagel feels like.
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 are marketed as vegetable-derived lanolin substitutes by the way.. so they might still be worth you trying? Of the two, I prefer Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 which is a thick, gloopy liquid at room temperature, a bit like slightly melted lanolin, and my skin likes it. It’s probably good in a lip balm.. runnier than lip gloss though. Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is semi-soft solid at room temperature but not gloopy and lubricious like lipgloss.
I think your best starting point is any of the lanolin substitutes rather than waxes. I would try oil gellants with Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 so that it doesn’t melt or absorb too quickly on the lips. Or even just start with pure lanolin (just saw that you’re not going for “vegan”) - lanolin is my personal favourite as a lip balm… I just use Medela Purelan which doesn’t smell and doesn’t go rancid like other lanolins I’ve tried.
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@helenhelen I really appreciate your input on this. Some very neat suggestions. I will try them and report back!
Which Versagel? There are several made with those 2 copolymers. I think the one you are referring to is the ME 500 T? MN750 looks interesting too (Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer)
I discovered that cushiony feeling when I tried Laneige overnight lip mask (I got a free sample at Sephora as I was perusing the ‘clean beauty’ shelves). I was surprised how much I liked it.
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Anca_Formulator said:@helenhelen I really appreciate your input on this. Some very neat suggestions. I will try them and report back!
Which Versagel? There are several made with those 2 copolymers. I think the one you are referring to is the ME 500 T? MN750 looks interesting too (Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer)
I discovered that cushiony feeling when I tried Laneige overnight lip mask (I got a free sample at Sephora as I was perusing the ‘clean beauty’ shelves). I was surprised how much I liked it.
This UK site sells their lip gloss base as “AKA Versagel ME 750” and describes it as “very thick”: https://www.evestore.co.uk/products/lip-gloss-base#details
I’m always surprised there are so many lip balm/mask products being sold because since I started using pure lanolin at least 12 years ago instead of any other balm, I’ve never looked back! It’s so simple yet so effective and I’m sure it would solve most people’s dry lips if they just tried it (except vegans and people who may be allergic obviously). The “nipple balm” branding is not the most glamorous I must admit… but there are brands that have more public-friendly packaging e.g. Lanolips and Dr Lipp.
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MarkBroussard said:Anca_Formulator said:@jemolian: thank you!! The lanolin replacement suggestion really helped. I can’t find it from my suppliers, but maybe orange peel wax would work too.I read that isononyl is rich and creamy, though I’ve never seen it. Is coco caprylate/caprate also rich and creamy? I thought it was light/medium.
Are you also trying to stay Vegan? If so, you might want to consider this: Most all synthetic ingredients are Vegan, so it’s kind of a nonsensical term in the context of cosmetic products. And, I laugh when I see ads for Vegan eyeshadow and mascara!
I look at it this way: The bees are not hurt at all by you using beeswax … they will make the beeswax regardless of whether or not it is used in a cosmetic product. The sheep will be shorn regardless and they are not harmed in the process, so nothing wrong with Lanolin. Beeswax and lanolin are great natural ingredients that outperform most other ingredients in certain applications. So, I might suggest you open up your mind to ignoring Vegan as a qualifier in your product development.
Totally agree with you Mark
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