Natural Anti soaping (whitening effect) ingredients

Formulating

Natural Anti soaping (whitening effect) ingredients

Posted by Anna on December 16, 2014 at 12:58 am

Hi every one
Is there any natural ingredients that can replace for
dimethicone which can help for the formula easy spreadable, and reduce
the soaping (whitening effect when rub on)” ? I do use any silicone for
my moisturizer cream. My skin is very sensitive, prone acne and easy to
broke out. i tried on C12,15 Alkyl Benzoate to reduce soaping and
Glycol distearate (pearlizer) however I have acne ( not sure which cause
the pimple). Thanks

Anna replied 9 years, 10 months ago 7 Members · 11 Replies
11 Replies

MarkBroussard

Member
December 16, 2014 at 12:29 pm

Anna:

The culprit is most likely the Glycol Distearate which is dispersible in water, but not soluble in water. That’s probably what is exacerbating the breakouts.

You must decide if your cream being white is really that important. Try it again without the Glycol Distearate.

You can try jojoba esters, but that will not affect the color of your formulation.
nasrins

Member
December 16, 2014 at 1:57 pm

dicaprylyl ether is a good alternative for silicones…
Sarah

Member
December 16, 2014 at 2:38 pm

I have had good results replacing dow corning 1401 with isoamyl laurate
Microformulation

Member
December 16, 2014 at 7:58 pm

They do fall short of good old safe and highly maligned Dimethicone BUT I have had some success with Bamboo Bioferment from the Formulator Sample Shop (Active Concepts).
Chemist77

Member
December 16, 2014 at 8:01 pm

@Sarah I have used the same and it has a wonderful spreadability, but for one to one replacement of 1401????
Sarah

Member
December 16, 2014 at 8:58 pm

@milliachemist I did a quick swap at 1:1 - it was not a 100% match but gave a less greasy feeling product which our customers seem to like.

Very very short notice project i.e. we have told our customers that the products are now silicone free - we need a new formulation before the next production run please….
Anna

Member
December 17, 2014 at 5:45 pm

Thank you guys! I will try today :-*
Anna

Member
December 18, 2014 at 5:38 pm

@ MarkBroussard
still be failed with 3% C12,15 Alkyl Benzoate to reduce soaping ( no braking out any more, good news). Do you thing the big problem is Olivem 1000 which cause whitening effect when rub on? what is the best natural emulsifier that i can use in stead of Olivem 1000?
MarkBroussard

Member
December 18, 2014 at 8:22 pm

Anna:

Try increasing the Alkyl Benzoate to 5%. Olivem 1000 simply soaps a bit under any circumstances. It is an excellent natural emulsifier, but you are going to have to accept a bit of soaping, but not so much soaping that it is problematic.

Nasrins and Sarah posted a couple of other alternatives. You might also look into jojoba esters or ethylhexyl palmitate.

Lastly, cut down on the Olivem to 3%.
chemicalmatt

Member
December 22, 2014 at 4:39 pm

Anna, none of the esters mentioned will reduce the “soaping” effect you observed - not by much anyway. Olivem 1000 lends just a little, but the EGDS you’ve added to your formula, or another stearate or laurate ester, is the likely culprit. Solution is quite simple: add cetyl alcohol, even 0.50% can cut down that soaping effect dramatically. Kudos for using my favorite ester C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in your product. As I’ve said on this blog before: what can’t Finsolv TN do?
Anna

Member
December 22, 2014 at 11:06 pm

I will try it again MarkBroussard
I will also try as advice from chemicalmatt
MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR (: