Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Moisturising lotion thickness

  • Moisturising lotion thickness

    Posted by UsmanAli on November 20, 2018 at 6:11 am

    Hi how are you all
    i am making a lotion with following ingredients:
    croda 1%
    cetyl alcohol 1%
    GMS 1%
    stearic acid 2%
    beeswax 0.4% 
    carbopol 0.04%
    TEA 0.5%
    solan E. 2%
    and some other excipients to make 100%
    when i have make and put it in room temperature it’s thickness is good but as we increase the temperature it become thin (38 celcius) when temperature is increased in summer it become thin like as water 
    please suggest me what’s wrong with my formula 

    UsmanAli replied 5 years, 10 months ago 5 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 20, 2018 at 6:35 am

     What is ‘croda’? What type of carbopol? What is GMS? Where’s your emulsifier? I see fatty acids but no oils, is it intentional? Not enough information but the most probable cause is wrong/not enough of emulsifier or absence of one. Also I assume you just didn’t list your preservatives right?

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 20, 2018 at 2:15 pm

    @ngarayeva001 - GMS is probably Glyceryl Monostearate which would qualify as an emulsifier. And neutralizing stearic acid will also create an emulsion.

    I agree though, I have no idea what “croda” is and the type of carbomer matters too.

    I don’t know why it would become thin at such a low temperature (38C). But I’d guess probably not enough fatty alcohols in the system.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 20, 2018 at 2:18 pm

    @Perry if that is SE grade, otherwise it would just be a consistency factor if I am not mistaken.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 20, 2018 at 2:23 pm

    @Chemist77 - the non SE grade also has emulsifying ability. It has an HLB of 3.8.  The SE version has an HLB of 5.8

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 20, 2018 at 3:04 pm

    Thanks @Perry, noted. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 20, 2018 at 11:24 pm

    Thank you @Perry. I searched for GMS in ulprospector and the first thing in the list was some lipophilic mica. Maybe GMS isn’t performing well with high HLB fatty alcohols and that causes changes in viscosity?

  • UsmanAli

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 9:28 am

    Croda in a emulsifier (Crodex N) 
    and i have used GMS SE 
    and Carbopol 940

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 11:21 am

    Then HLB is not an issue. Any oils in the formula?

  • em88

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 12:35 pm

    Carbopol 0.04%? Isn’t that way too low? 
    You can increase the quantity of carbopol, GMS or cetyl alcohol to increase the viscosity 

  • em88

    Member
    November 22, 2018 at 12:53 pm

    em88 said:

    Carbopol 0.04%? Isn’t that way too low? 
    You can increase the quantity of carbopol, GMS or cetyl alcohol to increase the viscosity 

    38C is not a low temperature at all. 
    Considering what you have in the formulation, guessing the melting points for each and with such a low oil phase, it is normal that your formulation will be thin at 38C 
    croda 1% ~ 50C
    cetyl alcohol 1% ~50C
    GMS 1% ~ 55C
    stearic acid 2% ~ 60C
    beeswax 0.4% ~ 60C

    Mention in the packaging “to be stored under 25C” and you are good to go.  

  • UsmanAli

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 5:01 am

    I have used white oil 4% and IPM 1%

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