Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Micellar water one phase preservative

  • Micellar water one phase preservative

    Posted by Andraous on January 1, 2021 at 7:16 pm

    Kindly need your support to choose the best preservative for the micellar water preservative noting that sodium benzoate and potasium sorbate change the color of the formula from clear to yelow and the phenoxyethanol, ethyl glycerin have an irritation effect.
    Thanks for your help 

    Abdullah replied 1 year, 8 months ago 9 Members · 34 Replies
  • 34 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 2, 2021 at 11:34 am

    If formaldehyde releasers isn’t a problem then use germall plus powder. I find it works well in formulations where transparency is important. I can’t comment on whether it will preserve your particular formula and you need to do all necessary tests (it’s a good preservative in general) but it shouldn’t contribute to cloudiness 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 2, 2021 at 11:58 am

    Irritation effect ? Is this from experience or heresay?  Glycols help but that still at minimum leaves a fungal gap. IPBC is any option - some use PHMB.

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 2, 2021 at 1:49 pm

    PhilGeis said:

    Irritation effect ? Is this from experience or heresay?  Glycols help but that still at minimum leaves a fungal gap. IPBC is any option - some use PHMB.

    Thank k you Mr. PhilGeis
     PHMB is banned since 2015 because this product is carcinogenic 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 4, 2021 at 3:20 pm

    Think EU cosm directive allows 0.1% with stipulation - “Not to be used in applications that may lead to exposure of the end-user’s lungs by inhalation.”
    Are there other nonpermissive directives? 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 4, 2021 at 5:22 pm

    Another biguanide -  polyaminopropyl biguanide.

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 4, 2021 at 5:26 pm

    Thanks a lot for your help
    I will try PHMB 

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 7, 2021 at 11:38 pm

    Try to other biugunaide 1st - polyaminopropyl biguanide.

  • belassi

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 1:05 am

    Drop the pH to 5 and sodium benzoate is perfectly adequate. 

  • Benz3ne

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 9:35 am

    Belassi said:

    Drop the pH to 5 and sodium benzoate is perfectly adequate. 

    I agree, plus I’d be surprised if the product was that far off pH 5 anyway.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 12:26 pm

    Sodium benzoate by itself is not adequate.   A simple check of cosmetic labels (not just for micellar water) shows virtually none using that option.  Pseudomonads eat benzoate.

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 5:26 pm

    Sodium benzoate and  benzoic acid @1.25%

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 7:41 pm

    PhilGeis said:

    Try to other biugunaide 1st - polyaminopropyl biguanide.

    I will

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 7:42 pm

    Benz3ne said:

    Belassi said:

    Drop the pH to 5 and sodium benzoate is perfectly adequate. 

    I agree, plus I’d be surprised if the product was that far off pH 5 anyway.

    PH of make up remover is 4.8 till 5.5

  • belassi

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 10:09 pm

    PhilGeis said:

    Sodium benzoate by itself is not adequate.   A simple check of cosmetic labels (not just for micellar water) shows virtually none using that option.  Pseudomonads eat benzoate.

    Tell that to Coca or Pepsi Cola. That is the preservative they use.

  • justaerin

    Member
    January 8, 2021 at 10:47 pm

    Belassi said:

    PhilGeis said:

    Sodium benzoate by itself is not adequate.   A simple check of cosmetic labels (not just for micellar water) shows virtually none using that option.  Pseudomonads eat benzoate.

    Tell that to Coca or Pepsi Cola. That is the preservative they use.

    But the pH of cola is ~2.5, not 5. I’m guessing that makes a difference, but I don’t know.
    Cola facial peels might be the next big thing. Or cola cleansers. Or a post bar soap washing cola hair rinse. The stickiness is just natural humectants!
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 12:36 am

    Coke cola?  A single-use product in a pressurized, herrmetically-sealed vessel at a prohibitive pH?  Coke is clearly irrelevant.

    Benzoic acid (Na benzoate) as preservative has a substantial Gram negative gap.  One need merely look at COSMETIC products now on the market to see its limited use - and virtually always as a secondary preservative.

    Please - preservation is a serious effort.  Infections from contaminated cosmetics have resulted in blindness and even death.  If you don’t know the subject well, please do not offer casual suggestions.

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 8:17 am

    I am doing a chalenge test before using any preservative 

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 8:18 am

    Andraous said:

    I am doing a chalenge test before using any preservative 

    In a german lab before. To make sure that the prervative is good

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 9:42 am

    Andraous said:

    I am doing a chalenge test before using any preservative 

    Why?

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 11:24 am

    To. Make sure that the bacteria can’t growth inside my formula. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 10:05 pm

    @Andraous I don’t get your point. If bacteria can’t grow in your formula (assuming it’s self preserving) why would you need a preservative?

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 9, 2021 at 10:07 pm

    @Andraous I don’t get your point. If bacteria can’t grow in your formula (assuming it’s self preserving) why would you need a preservative?

    I am doing chalange test for the final formula with the preservative. If results is good a cab proceed with it if not it can not be used

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 6:36 am

    There is a reason every cosmetic product on the market includes preservatives.  
    Why would you assume your product is uniquely “self-preserving.”

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 7:15 am

    I encourage folks to design a system that should work (theoretically effective against Gram -/+ and fungi) and then confirm it works vs these in challenge testing both as made and after ageing.  Passing a classic USP 51 (as EP or ISO) is not a guarantee.  Prrservatives help in manufcturing but are primarily intended (as specified by FDA and EU cosmetic directive) to protect consumers in use and USP is not validated fpr that.

  • Andraous

    Member
    January 10, 2021 at 7:52 am

    PhilGeis said:

    There is a reason every cosmetic product on the market includes preservatives.  
    Why would you assume your product is uniquely “self-preserving.”

    You dont understand me. I dont say that

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