Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Methys Salicylate replacement

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  • Methys Salicylate replacement

    Posted by VanBurenBay on October 10, 2022 at 8:23 pm

    I am working with a company that uses a 10% methyl salicylate 1.4% Menthol lotion.  The level of Active Ingredient Methyl Salicylate at 10% is a problem in Europe.  Any Ideas or suggestions?   

    Pharma replied 2 years, 2 months ago 3 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • gordof

    Member
    October 11, 2022 at 10:56 am

    Some change to Ethylsalicylate but it will in my experience with European authorities be banned next.  ( always going from smaller Molecules to bigger ones over time)

    Depending on the effect that the Methylsalicylate is there for I would suggest different raw material alternatives. ( of course, your scent of the product will change A LOT sadly) 

    For the Warming effect, I would use Vanillyl Butyl Ether or if you want to be more natural Capsaicin ( be aware of Restrictions and Heat sensitivity differences for different consumer groups and markets) 

    For Pain reduction, you could use a smaller amount of Salicylic acid. sadly I don’t have any other ideas in that direction if you want to stay as a cosmetic product. 

    the Ethylsalicylate will although have a reduced pain reduction property.

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 11, 2022 at 6:44 pm
    Be aware that a cosmetic product in the EU has to be safe and can not have a pharmacological effect beyond the skin. Methyl- and ethylsalicylate are small lipophilic and highly skin permeable compounds. There is no safe and really legal way you could sell a product with a concentratio well above that of a perfume ingredient.
    Also, the ‘designer drug approach’ only works in some cases and in some countries but it does not work for legal drugs (it only works for legal chemicals and non-restricted cosmetics vs. prohibited chemicals or regulated drugs). See regulation for methylsalicylate HERE. Ethyl salicylate is not (yet) in the annex VI but it is a potentially irritating ingredient and ‘creating’ a safety document for pharmaceutically active 10%… ugh… try 100x less ;) . If you want 10% then you want a pharmaceutical activity -> either register as such a product (which I would recommend if you’re willing to explore that rabbit hole), look for another project (you can’t replace someting with a desired pharmaceutical effect without using another activce pharmaceutical ingredient), or… (that’s the point where I stop, I’m not going to mention illegal doings as an alternative).

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