Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating MAP Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate serum-pilling rolling/balling on skin-why??

  • MAP Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate serum-pilling rolling/balling on skin-why??

    Posted by kot on May 8, 2020 at 3:39 pm

    What is happening here, why the serum with MAP /Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate/when applied to the skin starts ‘balling-up’ after it’s applied? How can i get rid of this problem?
    Thank you very much!

    kot replied 4 years, 11 months ago 3 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Pharma

    Member
    May 8, 2020 at 7:51 pm

    What’s in your serum? It might not be MAP or not MAP alone causing the effect.

  • kot

    Member
    May 8, 2020 at 8:53 pm

    AMISOL-3-O is Amisol Trio -Phospholipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (and) Glycolipids (and) Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols

    SILIGEL -   Lecithin (and) Sclerotium gum (and) Xanthan gum (and) Pullulan

    ZEMEA  -Zemea propanediol

    CHELATOR - sodium gluconate   

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    May 8, 2020 at 8:53 pm

    It’s not MAP it’s a huge amount of siligel. Reduce it to 0.5%.

  • kot

    Member
    May 8, 2020 at 8:54 pm

    Bingo! Thought it might be it, thank you!!! <3

  • kot

    Member
    May 8, 2020 at 9:04 pm

    @ngarayeva001

    Although it was doing this on Aristoflex AVC too…

  • kot

    Member
    May 12, 2020 at 3:45 pm

    Pharma said:

    What’s in your serum? It might not be MAP or not MAP alone causing the effect.

    Hi, posted the whole formula, could you have a look and let me know what you think, if/when you have time, please?
    Thank you. 

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 12, 2020 at 6:49 pm
    Your oil phase is 10% oils, 3% cetyl palmitate, 2% cetylalcohol, 0.5% Amisol containing phospholipids & sterols, and Siligel containing lecithin… This is 1/3 ‘hard fats’ and to me, this sounds like possible trouble (doesn’t need to be but could be).
    Me, I’d mix the first 4 ingredients to see how this ‘pure’ oil phase is like on skin. I expect it to show that what you call ‘rolling/balling’.
    I don’t know Siligel but reading a formulation guideline I’d have to concur what @ngarayeva001 said. Maybe not because of the lecithin but the large amount of polymers.
  • kot

    Member
    May 13, 2020 at 7:00 pm

    @Pharma Thank you, i’ll try your suggestion.

    Siligel – INCI: Lecithin (and) Sclerotium gum (and) Xanthan gum (and) Pullulan.

  • Pharma

    Member
    May 13, 2020 at 8:19 pm

    With “I don’t know Siligel” I mean I never worked with it and don’t know how too much gums feel like ;) .

  • kot

    Member
    May 13, 2020 at 9:36 pm

    Pharma said:

    With “I don’t know Siligel” I mean I never worked with it and don’t know how too much gums feel like ;) .

    Sure, INCI is  “just in case” ;) thanks for trying to help <3

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