Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General low irritant 80 % of total actives are CAPB

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  • low irritant 80 % of total actives are CAPB

    Posted by Fekher on November 23, 2018 at 7:22 pm

    who have idea about the effect of using high level of betaine “CAPB”  80% or higher of total actives in the irritant effect of product?

    belassi replied 5 years, 10 months ago 8 Members · 22 Replies
  • 22 Replies
  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 9:16 pm

    I have one formula with 70% CAPB of total actives. I tried 80%, but I find that  70% is good enough and foams better (because of decyl glucose that is a foam booster). Tested on 6 people (I understand not many) and it is tear free. You can lather your face and open your eyes. It’s a foaming face wash with total surfactants of 10%, 7 of which CAPB and the remainder is decyl glucoside and coco glucoside.

  • Gunther

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 10:21 pm

    Fekher said:

    who have idea about the effect of using high level of betaine “CAPB”  80% or higher of total actives in the irritant effect of product?

    The odd thing is that 100% CAPB is more irritating than 90%.

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 10:30 pm

    @Gunther  I made the same constatation , but even it seems strange that what experiences gave and the stranger That this study used just SLES as other surfactant with CAPB. So as first impression SLES supposed can not reduce the irritant effect of CAPB However the experiences proved the opposit.

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 10:32 pm

    Thanks @ngarayeva001 always giving help @Chemist77 @Perry @DAS have you an idea about that ?

  • DAS

    Member
    November 23, 2018 at 11:24 pm

    I wouldn’t pay much attention to this chart, without knowing what else is in the formula (it says surfactant mix) and how is the irritation test made, the data is irrelevant. A full study or experimentation will give you a better insight.

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 24, 2018 at 8:48 am

    @Das actully the study gives details it is just a curve from the study what i shared about surfactants it is just a blend of only SLES et CAPB.

  • David

    Member
    November 26, 2018 at 9:56 pm

    Cosmetic formulating is often about synergies between ingredients and optimising mixtures. It is not at all surprising that mixing two irritant ingredients together can give mildness as a result.

  • DAS

    Member
    November 27, 2018 at 6:58 am

    Interesting study, but still irrelevant. If you are not using SLES as your main surfactant, you don’t use it at all. 

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 28, 2018 at 1:20 pm

    Update actually even using 90% CAPB Actives dosen’t lead for free tear product when it used with only SLES.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 28, 2018 at 1:26 pm

    @Fekher, do you have access to decyl glucoside in your market? If yes, try 80% CAPB 20% of Decyl Glucoside with the total active surfactants of 10%. It should work.

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 28, 2018 at 1:31 pm

    @ngarayeva001 i will try to find it but may i will try a level lower then 80% CAPB , actully i want making high quality shampoo.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    November 28, 2018 at 1:36 pm

    I actually think that 70% will work. Try to get both decyl glucoside and coco glucoside. The bad thing about decyl, it makes the product thinner. This combination should be tear-free

  • Fekher

    Member
    November 28, 2018 at 1:42 pm

    thanks @ngarayeva001 i will try

  • Leduyhoang2987

    Member
    December 29, 2018 at 10:20 pm

    Hi. I use 6% CAPB ( 35% extract)and 3%decyl. But the smell is not nice. 

  • Gunther

    Member
    December 29, 2018 at 11:53 pm

    I actually think that 70% will work. Try to get both decyl glucoside and coco glucoside. The bad thing about decyl, it makes the product thinner. This combination should be tear-free

    May I ask how did you thicken it?
    I tried HEC for this formulation and it didn’t work
    https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/5257/hec-thick-layer-separating#latest

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 30, 2018 at 12:30 pm

    @Gunther, the only way I found to thicken this formula was xantham. Crothix doesn’t work for such formulas. I tried PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate but didn’t notice much difference. So, I use it in a foaming bottle. 

  • Gunther

    Member
    December 30, 2018 at 7:57 pm

    @Gunther, the only way I found to thicken this formula was xantham. Crothix doesn’t work for such formulas. I tried PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate but didn’t notice much difference. So, I use it in a foaming bottle. 

    Have you tried Carbopol?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 30, 2018 at 8:35 pm

    No, I haven’t. CAPB has electrolytes, and I thought carbopol isn’t a good idea. I will try sepimax zen out of curiosity but frankly, I am happy with the foaming bottle. Can you share your experience with carbopol and surfactants?

  • belassi

    Member
    December 30, 2018 at 8:42 pm

    Can you share your experience with carbopol and surfactants?
    I will: 
    :s :s :s :s :s :s :s :s :s :s :s :s :s :'( :'( :'( :'(  

  • Gunther

    Member
    December 31, 2018 at 1:42 am

    Maybe Carbopol Ultrez 20 or 21 tolerates more electrolytes (from CAPB) than regular carbopol does?

  • sven

    Member
    December 31, 2018 at 5:38 am

    @Belassi that bad?

  • belassi

    Member
    December 31, 2018 at 5:06 pm

    @sven: Yes. I went through a phase where I was hoping to suspend (eg mica) insoluble items in shampoo. Apart from problems with instability, and price (eg Aqua SF1) there is the simple fact that you can’t get the trapped bubbles out of it without some rather expensive vacuum mixing equipment.

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