Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Lotion Stability Issues

  • Lotion Stability Issues

    Posted by SlingerD on March 9, 2021 at 2:23 pm

    Hi Everyone,

    I’ve been formulating and selling anhydrous topical products for a couple years, and have been interested in finally trying my hand at some water based creations.

    I really like the sensorials and general experience of the formula I have stated below, but have run into some stability issues and am looking for some guidance. 

    1) I am putting the lotion in amber color glass bottles, and when I left a bottle outside in direct sunlight on a cool day, it developed a small amount of condensed water on the inside of the container.

    2) After 2 cycles of freeze/thaw, I achieved slight separation of water in a couple spots on the bottom edge of the container.

    Here’s the recipe:

    70% distilled water
    8% kelp (asconodosum phyllum) juice
    3% glycerin
    0.2% sodium gluconate

    3% E-wax NF
    2% GSC
    2% cetyl alcohol

    3% sunflower oil
    3% MCT oil
    1.3% Cannabis (CBD) oil
    1% cocoa butter
    1% olive oil
    0.5% vitamin e oil
    1% essential oil

    1% phenoxyethanol (optiphen)
    1/4 tsp titanium dioxide (per 10 units)
    q.s Citric Acid (achieving pH 5.0-5.5 in water phase before emulsion)

    A few questions:
    1) Why is this emulsion too weak to hold the water?
    2) would condensed water inside the container be considered preserved? 
    3) what can i remove/add/amend to strengthen this recipe?

    Thank you in advance!

    Shams replied 3 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 7 Replies
  • 7 Replies
  • SlingerD

    Member
    March 10, 2021 at 4:13 am

    ascophyllum nodosum* -oops! But, do I need to add more emulsifier to keep the water phase from separating? What are the usual culprits that lead to phase separation? 

  • MapX

    Member
    March 10, 2021 at 7:15 am

    I think you should raise a bit E-wax NF to 3,5 - 4% and combine with 1 polymer like xanthan gum or carbomer (0,2 - 0,5%) for improving stability of water phase.

  • SlingerD

    Member
    March 10, 2021 at 1:51 pm

    Thanks! I’ll give that a shot 

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    March 10, 2021 at 4:36 pm

    @MapX steers you well there @SlingerD in suggesting a rheology stabilizer, not only for stability but suspending that TiO2 otherwise it will eventually find its way to the bottom of your bottle. I’ll add though that what you observed is not so bad. The condensate was bound to happen inside a closed system heated by the sun and a little water exit post-freezing is not unusual. Add a little glycol either BG or PG and you may see that disappear.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    March 11, 2021 at 1:52 am

    The condensate was bound to happen inside a closed system heated by the sun and a little water exit post-freezing is not unusual. Add a little glycol either BG or PG and you may see that disappear.

    Will glycerin help with this situation?

  • SlingerD

    Member
    March 11, 2021 at 2:01 am

    Thank you @chemicalmatt for the reassurance. Was definitely a little nervous about this… I would like to bring this product to market soon, but will hold off until i have some more confidence in its shelf life and stability. After seeing improvements with at home challenge testing, planning to send to a 3rd party lab for confirmation. 

  • Shams

    Member
    March 19, 2021 at 4:25 am

    @chemicalmatt can you please further explain howPG or BG help wioth this water exit?
    Also, will glycerin do the same job.
    Thanks

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner