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lotion recipe has pilling and instability
Been working on a recipe with high menthol/methyl salicylate content and made a 100g sample. The menthol and methyl salicylate (15% of recipe) has been incorporated post emulsion and I know this is a huge load to add in at that time, but I thought it would help with preserving the menthol from gassing off. Went through the process, added main oil phase to the water portion, hand stirred the emulsion, added all post emulsion additives, thickened nicely, everything seemed dandy.
But, looking at it two months later, kept in dark conditions in a warehouse cabinet (some flucuating temps but typically on the colder side), it seems to have developed some ‘pilling’- almost like undissolved xanthan gum fisheyes- and looks to have some instability.
I made a 10% solution with distilled water and got a pH of 5.8, which is in my expected range.
Could there be an ingredient incompatibility am I unaware of or more so a processing error? Any advice is appreciated! Thank you!
Here is the recipe:
Calc H20 59.65 Xanthan gum 0.15 Sclerotium gum 0.15 Glycerin 1.9 Propanediol 0.25 Sodium dehydroacetate 0.2 CreamMix (Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl alcohol, SSL) 5.5 Sensiva PA40 (phenylpropanol, caprylyl glycol) 0.75 5% lactic acid sol 0.8 EDTA 0.2 GSC 1 Sunflower oil 1.5 Shea butter 1.5 Jojoba oil 2 Stearic acid 1.5 Hempseed oil 0.5 Cetyl Alcohol 1.5 CBD distillate 2.5 Post emulsion: Alcohol-based plant extracts 0.3 Rosemary Essential oil Lavender Essential oil 0.1 0.1 Vitamin E oil 0.2 Clove essential oil 2 Methyl Salicylate 8 Menthol 7 Euxyl9010PE (phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin) 0.75 -
3 Replies
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hi there
well, I don’t see a direct incompatibility but sometimes EDTA makes Funny complexion Reactions and I am not Shure about CBD and EDTA. YOu should at least homogenize after adding the “active Phase” due to the fact that you have a lot of oil components there you need to make some small droplets out of them.
Although I want to share the information that methyl Salicylate will (at least in Europe) no longer be allowed in Cosmetic Products in concentrations above 0,05999 % (in creams) and you can not sell them in Europe with the start of 2023. so if you developing for European market be aware of that.
Maybe someone can give more idears
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@SlingerD First, I’d add the Lactic acid once the emulsion has been formed, in the cool down phase. Then, add some base (like NaOH solution) to bring the pH closer to neutral (that would help convert Stearic acid into Sodium stearate which is an emulsifier, and stabilize the SSL in your CreamMix). Also, 2% of essential oil could be too high to be added post emulsion.
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ketchito said:@SlingerD First, I’d add the Lactic acid once the emulsion has been formed, in the cool down phase. Then, add some base (like NaOH solution) to bring the pH closer to neutral (that would help convert Stearic acid into Sodium stearate which is an emulsifier, and stabilize the SSL in your CreamMix). Also, 2% of essential oil could be too high to be added post emulsion.
Thanks @ketchito ! I will play around with the pH and reduce my post emulsion oil additions and see what happens.
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