Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Long term lotion stability

  • Long term lotion stability

    Posted by Chemist5000 on September 25, 2017 at 11:50 pm

    I need to make a lotion that should have a decent stability life.  

    In theory, should I use a carbomer or a cellulose gum or a combination of the 2?  

    I understand you really won’t know the stability till its done.

    DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ replied 7 years ago 7 Members · 19 Replies
  • 19 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 12:41 am

    Carbomer creams stability … I have pots here >5 yrs which have eventually lost too much moisture to use, but they still have the same colour, aroma, and sensorials. In ambient temps 15-35C

  • belassi

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 12:50 am

    It’s a complicated question you asked. Production values are a major issue here. For instance, if you use gum you have to pre-disperse it and the moment it hydrates you have an immediate and permanent increase in viscosity. It is largely independent of temperature and so, relying on gum as a stabiliser may not only result in poor sensorials, but also pouring issues into the package.
    Whereas, carbomer creams are temperature sensitive and easy to pour above a critical temperature. You use a well insulated or temp-controlled pouring vessel. 
    Or, of course, you can use an emulsion system, backed up perhaps by a little gum. 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 4:30 am

    I’d agree.  Carbomer is the way to go.

  • Chemist5000

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 3:28 pm

    What exactly is an emulsion system?

  • OldPerry

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 7:39 pm

    Any blend of non compatible materials like oil and water that is stablized through the use of surfactants (also called emulsifiers) is an emulsion system.

    Most lotions would be considered emulsions.  The emulsion system is the emulsifiers & suspending agents that keep it stable.

  • Chemist5000

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 7:55 pm

    so in a lotion you can have just an emulsion system (emulsifiers/oil/waxes) and not a carbomer?  Perhaps just a cellulose gum?  Stability (approx. a year or 2) would not be for long without a carbomer …. correct.

  • belassi

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 9:31 pm

    You don’t need a stabiliser if the emulsion is designed well. My early creams were carbomer creams because I copied a commercial design successfully. Later on, I stopped using carbomer once I understood emulsions.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    September 26, 2017 at 10:18 pm

    Carbopol emulsions are stable 5plus years?We have cream which is seven years old and still stable.No water loss in package.Better than surfactants as modifies Rheology and replaces need for HLB system.Love it.

  • Derya

    Member
    October 20, 2017 at 11:52 pm

    Hi Belassi

    Could you tell us why you stopped using carbomers please?

  • belassi

    Member
    October 21, 2017 at 5:16 am

    Well that is a complicated question to answer.
    I suppose that after I learned the HLB and another system, I wanted to use the knowledge to design stable emulsions without carbomer or gum. It is easier to work with them from a packaging point of view. No neutralisation and no problem with electrolytes of which there is a ton in my emulsions. Also, I use glycyrrhizic acid to make emulsions.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 21, 2017 at 11:31 pm

    Carbomers and related compounds are an advancement in cosmetic science as they allow formulaters to do things otherwise not possible 

  • belassi

    Member
    October 21, 2017 at 11:51 pm

    Besides, I didn’t “stop using” carbomers. I use carbomer in three different gel products.

  • fkay

    Member
    October 22, 2017 at 3:47 am

    hi I hope u are well. this is my question
     
    if u use cobopol/cobomer. the ph is alkaline.. so adding ascobic acid as vit c in the product is not good .. is this correct.

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 24, 2017 at 9:12 pm

    Carbomer should be acid prior to neutralizing with a base IE- TEA,NaOH

  • Doreen

    Member
    October 24, 2017 at 9:19 pm

    @DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ
    Won’t the pH after neutralization be too high for L-ascorbic acid to be effective? Most carbomers need pH >6, right? Or is LAA not pH dependant?

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 24, 2017 at 11:28 pm

    Yes Ph would be too high for LAA addition and If added will lowerPh and destabilize carbomer 

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 24, 2017 at 11:33 pm

    LAA to be effective has to be at 2to3 so yes you are right.we use xanthan gum with LAA

  • Derya

    Member
    October 25, 2017 at 1:58 pm

    So from above comments if I wanted to use hurdle technology to get a good preservation system and have a pH of around 4, a carbomer is not the way to go to have a shelf stable lotion/cream?

  • DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ

    Member
    October 25, 2017 at 2:17 pm

    You can do it at 5 with most carbomers but below 5 likely unstable in storage at 50C-I would use either XG or polyamide such as Simugel INS (Seppic) or both.

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