Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Leave-in Conditioner Spray

  • Leave-in Conditioner Spray

    Posted by AyaKhatib on September 16, 2022 at 11:29 am

    I’m trying to make a leave-in conditioner in liquid form.

    I’ve tried to make a very light conditioner; but it also thickened by the next day. I need it to stay liquid and sprayable!!

    My fotmulation was:

    Phase “A” 
    7% Monopropylene Glycol
    1% Glycerin 
    Water till 100%

    Phase “B”
    2% Cetearyl Alcohol 1618 50/50 
    2% Coconut Oil 

    Phase “C”
    3% Cetrimonium Chloride 

    Phase”D”
    4% Amodimethicone 
    0.1% Preservative 
    1% Fragrance

     Procedure:
    I’ve heated each of the phases “A” and “B” till 70-75 degree celcius. Then mix using a homogenizer to get an emulsion. Directly I add phase “C” and also use the homogenizer. Finally after cooling down I start adding the imgredients of phase “D”.

    Note: Another formula was made with same percentages but with adding behentrimonium chloride.

    Fekher replied 2 years, 2 months ago 5 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    September 16, 2022 at 11:47 am

    @AyaKhatib There’s no emulsifier neither in Phase A nor B. You might want to add Cetrimonium chloride to your water phase. Also, propylene glycol is too high for a leave-in (it can be irritaring). With that formula, you shouldn’t get a thick emulsion. Did you check the stability? It might be the case that you get a waxy mixture not completely emulsified that would eventualy separate.

    What type of Amodimethicone are you using? If it’s an emulsion similar to the DC 949, then you just need to add it below 40°C with high mixing, to get a fluid emulsion.

  • AyaKhatib

    Member
    September 16, 2022 at 11:57 am

    What emulsifier could be used other than cetrimonium chloride without increasing the viscosity? 

  • Fekher

    Member
    September 16, 2022 at 7:39 pm

    @ketchito actually the combination cetearaly alcohol with cetrimonium chloride can work as emulsifier and can lead to stable emulsion.
    @AyaKhatib I don’t think that it is allowed the level of 3% cetrimonium chloride for leave in then I just see only cetearaly alcohol as texture agent. 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    September 17, 2022 at 3:28 am

    Have you used this product? 

    Did it work better as a leave in or rinse of conditioner?

  • AyaKhatib

    Member
    September 17, 2022 at 5:22 am

    @Fekher Would a 1.5% Cetrimonium Chloride form a stable emulsion?

    @Abdullah Actually yes it had a better effect on the hair than a creamy leave-in or a rinse off conditioner. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 17, 2022 at 5:59 am

    That would likely separate unfortunately. Suggestions: ditch glycols (unless used as preservative boosters), CETAC to water phase and check limits for leave on products, find emulsified version of amodimethicone (there’s plenty with pareths ceteths etc), coconut oil to be reduced to 0.01%(for label appeal only), cetearyl OH to be reduced to 1%, considered adding some cationic polymer to waterphase (polyquats, cationic guar etc)

  • Fekher

    Member
    September 17, 2022 at 10:42 pm

    @AyaKhatib  for creams @ngarayeva001 is better then me however I guess 1,5% CATC with adequate level of cetearaly alcohol can be stable but is it allowed sush level of CATC in leave in? 

  • Abdullah

    Member
    September 18, 2022 at 2:34 pm

    If you want it to be water thin, don’t use fatty alcohol and coconut oil at all. 

  • ketchito

    Member
    September 19, 2022 at 11:39 am

    Fekher said:

    @ketchito actually the combination cetearaly alcohol with cetrimonium chloride can work as emulsifier and can lead to stable emulsion.
    @AyaKhatib I don’t think that it is allowed the level of 3% cetrimonium chloride for leave in then I just see only cetearaly alcohol as texture agent. 

    @Fekher In the way the method was described, it seemed like CTC was added in the coold down phase (perhaps I got it wrong), and there it would’t emulsify much since solid phases might habe started to form already, that’s why I suggested to add CTC in the water phase.

  • Fekher

    Member
    September 20, 2022 at 5:13 am

    Nice suggestion @ketchito 

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