Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Leave in conditioner obsession and issues

  • Leave in conditioner obsession and issues

    Posted by shuchi on February 11, 2020 at 5:03 am

    Hi All, 

    My obsession with leave on conditioner formulation is just overwhelming. :D that I tried making another batch of leave in conditioner. This time, I have dropped glycol stearate. The formula was

     Phase A                                    %                       gms/ml
    D/W                                           82.2                    
    Glycerin                                       3.0                  16.0 ml
    D Panthenol                                0.5                    3.0 ml                    
    Cetrimonium chloride                  0.3                    2.0 ml   
     Phase B
    BTMS 50                                    5.0                    26.0 gms
    Ceto stearyl alcohol                   1.0                      5.0 ml
    Stearic acid                                0.5                      2.5 gms
    Coconut oil+Jojoba oil                3.0                    15.0 ml
    Dimethicone                               1.5                      7.5 ml
    Phase C
    M paraben                                  0.5                      2.5 ml 
    Keratin+Biotin powder+              0.5                     2.5 gms
    Vit C powder                                
    Essential oils - Tea tree,Lemon,  1.0                     5.0 ml
    Orange pulp, Vit E
    Citric acid                                     1.0                     5.0 ml   
    The end product was good in consistency, look and feel. However, the pH was only at 2.9 when the target was between 4.8 and 5.5. I had to look up some blogs and baking soda was mentioned as a solution to up the pH. When I put around half a teaspoon of baking soda, the formulation separated into water and the creamy part ( emulsion) floating. Though the fishy odour from last time was handled well this time, the pH and the separation of the formulation was a let down. Will I be able to modify the batch or will I have to discard? What in your expert opinion could have gone wrong? Your valuable feedback will be helpful. Thanks in advance  :#
    Abdullah replied 4 years, 8 months ago 5 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • creatorhealer2020

    Member
    February 21, 2020 at 5:01 pm

    I would suspect that too much baking soda was used and the pH was too high to maintain stability in your formula.  I’m new to this, but if it were me I would add more emulsifier to see if I could fix it and then test the pH again.

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    February 22, 2020 at 12:27 am

    DEL the stearic acid and choose which quat you want to go with. CETAC and BTMS are “competing” to be the primary emulsifier there. CETAC usually wins.

  • Gunther

    Member
    February 23, 2020 at 11:47 pm

    Drop the 1% citric acid and test its pH.
    Remove the biotin+keratin+vit C
    Remove the stearic acid and add more fatty alcohols if needed.

    Cetrimonium or BTMS won’t really emulsify silicones in water thin products.
    So you’d better add a ready made silicone emulsion, or a water soluble silicone.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    February 24, 2020 at 2:37 am

    @shuchi 
    %1 citric acid is too high. Reduce the amount. Only %0.3 can drop the pH from 12 to 5 or 6 

Log in to reply.

Chemists Corner