Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating labelling of surfactants according to active%

  • labelling of surfactants according to active%

    Posted by Thota on March 6, 2019 at 11:27 pm

    Hi all

    I am trying to  dupe a product with the ingredients I have,
    here is the list of ingredients- 

    Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauryl Betaine, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

    Only one thing I know is 15% glycerin

    I am trying to understand if the above surfactants are listed in order of addition or inorder of % active.

    If they r listed in % active, my formula would be

    Water qs

    GLycerin 15

    Na L Sarcosicnate 10% active

    CAPB 3% active

    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 2% Active

    Xantahn Gum 0.5-1%

    Sorbitan Caprylate, Propanediol, Benzoic Acid 1%

    If they r listed in order of ingredients, my formula would be below, to achive similar active surfactant matter

    Water qs

    GLycerin 15

    Na L Sarcosicnate 15 

    CAPB 14

    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 6 Active

    Xantahn Gum 0.5-1%

    Sorbitan Caprylate, Propanediol, Benzoic Acid 1%

    Please let me know what is the industry standard for listing surfs. 
    Actually would make both versions and see. 

    Thota replied 6 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    March 7, 2019 at 12:17 am

    I am trying to  dupe a product 
    The first thing to do is tell us what that product is that you want to copy.
    Second: I doubt those surfactants are individuals in that formulation. It sounds like a proprietary blend plus extras. Possibly from Inolex. Or GAL.
    Third: Do you have an under-vacuum mixing system?

  • Thota

    Member
    March 7, 2019 at 4:17 am

    Hi Belassi,

    Thanks for reply,I dont have a vacuum mixer yet. Planning to invest in 100L  vaccum mixer very soon, may be in 6months. 

    Product I am trying to dupe is,
    https://www.qvskincare.com.au/product/qv-gentle-body-wash
    Always wanted to make a body wash very rich in glycerin. As I am a seasoned soapmaker (coldprocess) and never found a bodywash as moisturising as my Castile soaps. I know that pH of soap is bad, so this what I am trying to achieve, skin friendly pH product with loads of glycerin.

    Sure they must be blends, But I have CAPB and SCI at hand. As I use them in a facewash. and can easily get Sodium Cocoamphodiacetate and Sarcosinate in smaller quantities. Investing in blends may be a future thing.

    Also I am sure surfs are listed according to %active. so I would go with first option. 

  • belassi

    Member
    March 7, 2019 at 5:32 am

    Ah it’s an Australian product. Hmmm.
    My first observation is to question why did they choose an opaque package?
    15% glycerin is very high. I imagine the product would be quite sticky.

  • Gunther

    Member
    March 7, 2019 at 3:37 pm

    How do you know for sure that glycerin is 15%?
    Did you have the product tested at a chemical or chromatography lab? 

    My guess is that glycerin is more like 5%

  • Thota

    Member
    March 7, 2019 at 4:13 pm

    Belassi,

    It think its famous in Australia and has good reviews. They also have a 60% glycerin body wash for very dry skin. And their price is just $13 USD for 500ml bottle which is a mass market Product. https://www.qvskincare.com.au/product/qv-intensive-moisturising-cleanser

    I am going to try make both 15% glycerin and 60% glycerin and see how it goes. And sticky does it, really matter in a bodywash. 

    And also 15% glycerin is much less costly than 1% Panthenol and 60% glycerin is less costly than 2% Panthenol. (I use 2% Panthenol in my facewash). A

    Obviously I am trying to develop something for very dry skin.

  • Thota

    Member
    March 7, 2019 at 4:19 pm

    Gunther said:

    How do you know for sure that glycerin is 15%?
    Did you have the product tested at a chemical or chromatography lab? 

    My guess is that glycerin is more like 5%

    I have not tested the product, but the website itself mentions 15% glycerin and customers rave about it- non drying body wash in a non premium market.

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