Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Is this ingredient list leaving something out?

  • Is this ingredient list leaving something out?

    Posted by Trytryagain on June 14, 2023 at 3:30 pm

    This is the ingredient list for a facial moisturizer. My question is are they leaving out the emulsifier? Isn’t cetostearyl alcohol the same as cetearyl alcohol? I thought this was a thickener and stabilizer but not enough of an emulsifier to be the primary? I see other issues with the inci list, like them using “optiphen” instead of the inci names and misspelling glycerin, but I am most interested in the emulsifier, wondering if they left off polysorbate (or other components) on purpose. This is from a “natural” very mother earthy granola type brand.

    Cannabis sativa (hemp seed)* I Calophyllum inophyllum (tamanu)* I Camellia sinensis (green tea extract) I Prunus dulcis (sweet almond)* I ‎Aloe Barbadensis (aloe vera)* I Rosa Damascena (Bulgarian rose water)* I distilled water I Cetostearyl alcohol I vegetable glyercin* I panthenol I optiphen I pure essential oils Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree)*, Rosa Maroc

    Trytryagain replied 1 year, 5 months ago 5 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • ozgirl

    Member
    June 15, 2023 at 6:19 pm

    This ingredients list is definitely not in the correct format.

    It is very likely they left out some ingredients to sound better.

    I wouldn’t use this product. If they can’t learn how to label their product correctly, they probably have no idea of GMP or product safety either. ????

  • Perry44

    Administrator
    June 16, 2023 at 7:31 am

    Agreed

  • Graillotion

    Member
    June 16, 2023 at 4:15 pm

    I absolutely concur with OzGirls comment….on ‘if they can’t get the inci right’….

    The INCI has to be the absolute easiest part of putting together a product. If you cannot do the simplest aspect…how in the world…would they EVER get the complicated aspects right????

    Not a CHANCE! ☹

  • Trytryagain

    Member
    June 16, 2023 at 8:20 pm

    Thank you all for the replies! I appreciate it. I dissect ingredient lists for fun now and this one certainly raised questions! I’m sure it won’t be the last. ????

  • Karina

    Member
    July 3, 2023 at 10:19 pm

    I could be wrong but maybe they used aloe Vera gel as the “emulsifier” I’ve seen people do it this way. I sure dont.

    • Trytryagain

      Member
      July 3, 2023 at 10:56 pm

      I am unaware of any formulation techniques that would allow aloe vera to act as an emulsifier. Perhaps someone else will elaborate on this.

      Since I began studying ingredients and formulating, I have spent a lot of hours reading INCI lists. I have found a few times that some brands appear to leave off ingredients. Emulsifiers and preservatives seem to be the ones most commonly left out. I am not including the preservative they call “parfum” as the one being left out either.

      • Graillotion

        Member
        July 4, 2023 at 12:09 am

        Aloe is a poor humectant, and excellent bug food. It will not emulsify. 🙂

  • Trytryagain

    Member
    July 4, 2023 at 7:21 am

    @Graillotion Thank you for the confirmation ???? I will pass on the bug food!

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