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is it a good start for a lotion cleanser?
Hello everyone
Im trying to formulate a face cleanser that has a milky texture similar to the one on the picture below with the least amount of ingredients for a more concentrated formula
The results i want is the skin is not irritated after cleansing; it is not tight; it is hydrated and well moisturized and clean. Phase A :
- Deionized Water
- Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
- Glycerin
- Panthenol
- Allantoin
Phase B :
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Phase C:
- Sodium Hyaluronate
- Niacinamide
- Tocopherol
- Sodium Hydroxide
Thanks a lot for your feedback
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10 Replies
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Sarcosinates are usually mild and have a nice stable foam. Make sure your final pH is >5.
Panthenol, Allantoin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol should be used at marketing % = 0.1 or 0.01% - will go down the drain. [Unless you show me some in-vivo study that it has benefits in wash off products]
Keep the CCT input at minimum so you do not kill the foam and cleansing properties.
I do not see any preservative?
Did you get this of some brand or it is your list of ingredient? What is the purpose of Sodium Hydroxide in there?
You could use some superfatting agent to give the hydrates/moisturized feel after wash. I assume this is for (your) dry, sensitive skin?
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Hello Paprik;
Thanks for your reply.
No i made this formula and Sodium Hydroxide is to maintain a balanced PH and also it helps oils and fats lather and foam into a soap.Do you think its unecessary?I understand the part of ingredients going down the drain but cleansing is the most important part in a routine and so if you dont cleanse well or if the product you use is messed up well the entire skin is messed up.So i believe that having ingredients that sooth; nourish and moisturise the skin after cleansing is an important differentiator 🙂 lots of people say i use a cleanser but my skin feels so tight after and we dont want people complaining about that 🙂
Thanks a lot Paprik
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I believe @Paprik meant by “going down the drain”, that those ingredients won’t have any activity on the skin from a cleanser, which is a rinse off product. I would add Glycerin as one of those not useful ingredients that people put in a cleanser.
Btw, you mention that you use Sodium hydroxide to help oils and fats lather and foam into a soap. Do you mean body fats? Or the one from your formula (which is your Caprylic/capric triglyceride)? Just in case, fatty alcohols are not considered as fats in surfactant systems (they are structuring agents).
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That looks beautiful! If I see that texture on a website, I’m buying the product right away!
@Paprik is right tho. The key is the mildness of the surfactants you are using, not so much those extras. They won’t stay long enough on the body to do what they are supposed to do. Don’t take our words for it. Make two different types of the same cleanser, one with and one without those ingredients. And see for yourself if you notice anything. You could keep at 0.1 or less for claim in you do agree that it doesn’t do much.When it comes to glycerine in cleansers, this group often don’t recommend. I performed the test above and noticed something different when glycerin is not included. Just test before you literally waste some expensive products. -
In my personal experience the only format that cleanses and moisturizes at the same time is balm. Surfactant and oil. Banila, Clinique take the day off etc.
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This formula is highly likely to separate. You don’t need both Cetyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Alcohol. Ditch one of these and replace with Glyceryl Stearate SE.
Also, the NaOH makes no sense. All it will do is raise the pH.
Replace the Glycerin with a refatting agent such as Glyceryl Oleate.
As others have noted, keep the other ingredients at label ingredients levels of max 0.1%.
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Thank you @MarkBroussard for your review . Could you pls tell me if its a lot of ingredients for a start?
Phase A :
- Water
- Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
- Glyceryl oleate
- 0.01% Panthenol
- 0.01% Allantoin
Phase B :
- Glyceryl Stearate SE
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (faible dosage pour ne pas neutraliser la mousse et les proprietes nettoyantes)
Phase C:
- 0.01%Sodium Hyaluronate
- 0.01% Niacinamide
- 0.01% Tocopherol
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Phase A :
- Water
- Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
- Glyceryl oleate
Phase B :
- Glyceryl Stearate SE
- Cetyl Alcohol
Phase C
- Preservative
Phase D
- pH adjuster to 4.8 - 5.3
Make this and see how it feels and performs. If it’s to your likings, add the marketing ingredients after. They won’t effect stability or performance much.
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Thanks a lot @Paprik and @MarkBroussard
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