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Interesting but skeptical read on preservatives in Happi mag…
One of the commentors mentioned a new preservative from Sharon. It is either 90% or 95% niacinamide (there are two versions) Tradename is ‘AQUAVITA’
The INCI’s look like this: (suggested inclusion is 3-5%)
Niacinamide 97-99%
POLYLYSINE 1-3%
And the second one is:
Niacinamide 91-95%
GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 4-6%
DECYLENE GLYCOL 1-3%
pH working range… 4-8.
Seems to me….if this were true…. most niacinamide formulas….would be practically self preserving? 😉
I thought Sharon was a reasonably reputable brand…. have I thought wrong?
Anyone put a formula through PET…using these?
Seen any info on this Dr Geis? @PhilGeis
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4 Replies
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I saw the article - 100% marketing. I know some of the folks offering information - good technical folks doing the best they can with what their companies produces and demands of them.
These are no doubt patented combinations. Niacinamide is not a preservative - think they add it in interest of “protecting the skin”. Polylysine is a cationic and BS as a preservative. Glyceryl caprylate is an ester - multifunctional booster but too susceptible to Gram neg esterases to function as primary. Decyl glycol is just that - a glycol - but less commonly used so may serve patent novelty.
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There hasn’t been a really effective new molecule since isothiazolinones. So we have the classic line up, all off patent. Anyone can make them - so preservatives are commodities. The cosmetic market is a small one, and suppliers can’t make it competing simply on price for commodity chemicals. Inventing/ patenting novel combinations with the boiler plate natural (by some definition) broad spectrum across wide pH, here with the skin friendly BS for niacinamide, lets them occupy a premium priced marketing space.
I’d like it better if they’d pursue new molecules at the same time (Arxada may be) but the payback after all the chemistry, micro testing, safety testing, regulatory approval, marketing etc. is marginal for cosmetics and the chances of success are about the same as new drug development.
It’s certainly cheaper to formulate with individual chemicals - the big guys do this. Ironic that high, priced combos are usually less effective but they do work the balance sheets.-
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AQUAVITA spells almost like a type of vodka in Scandinavian countries
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And maybe….just maybe… the Vodka would be the better choice as a preservative. 😂
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