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Increase pigmentation
How do you go about increasing the pigmentation of a loose powder? I feel that when you drag my pigment across the skin the particles pull apart from eachother abd it becomes more sheer. What should I look into to get it to go on in almost a “moist” way, where it looks wet because of how pigmented it is.
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10 Replies
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I’m probably misunderstanding the question, but - why can’t you simply use more pigment?
Also, loose powders will never look “wet”. The physics of light reflection from particles makes it impossible.
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Well even if I use more pigment it just increases the amount but when you drag the product over the skin it goes on more sheer than the actual color. I’m trying to figure out how to get it to apply in a thicker manner I suppose
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Ah, I see. You are having the classic problem of “mass tone” versus “skin tone”, where makeup looks darker in the bottle/stick/container than it does when applied on skin.
Have you tried increasing the amount of oil binder you’re using in your loose powder?
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Yes I have and it seems to help when I’m pressing the powders into a compact form but as far as with the loose I haven’t figured a way to disperse it without making it clumpy. I’m sure a Muller would be my save all but I’ve yet to get the funds for that.
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Hey Bob, so I want to increase the oil binder in the loose powder, what’s the best way to grind it in so ita not clumpy? Can I use a marble mortar and pestle?
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NO! Do not use a mortar and pestle! (Unless you like grinding each batch of powders for 10 hours or so. In that case, go for it)
I think I figured out what’s going on.
Unless you’re making loose powders in 10 kilo lots, or have huge amounts of money floating around, you should be making them in some version of a kitchen blender. Ideally, you would pair it with an orbital mixer, but that’s not essential.
First, you need to make sure that your pigments are ground as finely as possible. You can do this yourself, by blending a 20% pigment/talc or mica dispersion over and over again, or you can buy pre-made dispersions. If you’re only making one shade for yourself, you can grind your pigment mix all together, but if you’re making multiple shades, you want to do this one pigment at a time.
Next, you want to disperse the binder into a different portion of talc (mica/sericite, etc. are also good). This will give you a concentrate that you can add to multiple batches, if you can make it large enough.
Then, blend everything together at a slow speed.
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And a muller will be nearly useless for this, by the way. Mullers are for liquid makeup and lipstick.
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That’s kinda what Ive done so far. I make my additive batch with rose talc and other ingredients and added the oil binder to that. I have a small portable coffee grinder I’ve been using and it’s helped alot. I’m wondering if my mini food processor would be efficient. What do you think a good oil to powder ration is? I do it in drops currently, about 4-5 per 1gram powder.
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http://www.koboproductsinc.com/Formulas.html#LPowder
http://www.mpipersonalcare.com/Formulations.aspx?fp=main
Look at these formulas to see how much they’re using.
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Try making a binder concentrate at 5% or 10% binder. Then add the amount of the concentrate you need to your batch.
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