Increase Foam and Slip/ Glide in Shampoo

Formulating

Increase Foam and Slip/ Glide in Shampoo

Posted by Danger on October 9, 2020 at 3:47 am

Hi,

I’m making an opaque shampoo :

A Aqua ad. 100
Na2Edta 0.1
Glycerin 3

B SLES 70% 10
Lauryl glucoside 10
CAPB 5
Disodium cocoamphoacetate 5
Polyquarternium7 2
PEG 150 Distearate 0.5
Glycol distearate 1

C Fragrance 1
PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil 2

D DMDM Hydantoin 0.5
Citric acid 1 ad pH 5-6
NaCl 0.5

Phase A-B in hot process. Problems :
1. The foam is not as much as I expected. If I increase SLES to 20%, then my hair became stiff/ rigid/ hard (I had add polyquat 7 2%). What should I do to increase the foam ?

2. The shampoo is not glide/ slip enough. What should I add to increase glide/slip effect ?

Thankyou very much for you response.

Harry_Indonesia

ngarayeva001 replied 4 years, 2 months ago 6 Members · 11 Replies
11 Replies

ketchito

Member
October 9, 2020 at 1:02 pm

@Danger Starting with the fact that you could greatly reduce the Glycerin which could impair your foam without giving you any real benefit, I’d also suggest to also reduce your fragrance (it’s usually present at half that concentration), and also cut by half PEG-40 HCO. Also, DMDM Hydantoin alone would only protect againts bacteria, so I’d advise to add a paraben or IPBC to make your system more broad spectrum.
belassi

Member
October 9, 2020 at 5:06 pm

1. SLES is not the world’s greatest foamer but it is usually adequate. I suggest removing the PEG-40 HCO completely. The SLES should be adequate to emulsify the fragrance by itself. Mix them together first. If not, use a fragrance that does emulsify in SLES. Then see how the foam is. If still not enough, Disodium cocoamphoacetate gives excellent small-bubble foam, you can try increasing the percentage. You might try a commercial cold-process pearl instead of the distearate.
2. This is logical because SLES in my opinion is a short-flow surfactant. It’s a reason I don’t use it myself. A water-dispersible silicone ester such as Silsense DW-16 might be of help (typical use rate, 1%) otherwise it is a case of changing surfactants.
express2025

Member
October 9, 2020 at 6:33 pm

you can use polyox WSR 301 at percentage (0.05)
Danger

Member
October 14, 2020 at 2:25 am

Thankyou @ketchito, @Belassi, @express2025 for advices
I’ll make several trials without glycerin and peg-40.
Abdullah

Member
October 15, 2020 at 12:36 pm

@Belassi what does a short-flow surfactant mean and what surfactants do you use instead?
ngarayeva001

Member
October 15, 2020 at 2:18 pm

In very simplified terms: ketchup - short flow, honey - long flow. Don’t confuse with viscosity.
belassi

Member
October 15, 2020 at 2:31 pm

I use a blend: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (and) Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (and) Lauramide DEA (and) Lauryl Glucoside (and) Ammonium Xylenesulfonate.
I can tell when a product is SLES based just by using it, the products don’t have enough slip, they are short-flow.
Abdullah

Member
October 17, 2020 at 4:13 am

@ngarayeva001 what specification of honey and ketchup are you comparing if not viscosity?
Abdullah

Member
October 17, 2020 at 4:14 am

@Belassi does short flow mean less slip?
belassi

Member
October 17, 2020 at 3:19 pm

does short flow mean less slip?
- Yes.
ngarayeva001

Member
October 18, 2020 at 12:49 pm

It’s not viscosity that distinguishes honey from ketchup it’s elasticity. Ok, compare carbomer (say ultrez 30) and xanthan (any grade), you can bring them to the same viscosity but xanthan will never have flow as short as carbomer. And yes xanthan is more slippery.