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Incorporating low concentrations of lipophilic ingredients into a hydrophilic base
Hi, all.
I just read the following on Skinchakra:
“Acacia gum enables you to incorporate low concentrations of lipophilic ingredients in a hydrophilic base without the need to use any emulsifier or solubilizer.”
Does this sound plausible? And, alternatively, does anyone know of any other non-synthetic way to achieve the same outcome (i.e., other than through acacia gum)? -
8 Replies
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Sclerotium
Gum might be able to do that. -
I’ve tried doing that. I found somewhere that 5% acacia gum can emulsify 1% of oil. Long story short, acacia gum I had wasn’t able to emulsify even 0.1% of CCT. I haven’t tried buying acacia gum from another repacker or using a different oil so I can’t be sure what my issue was.
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This may work in theory but in practice it likely won’t lead to much stability. But other associative thickeners may help suspend small amounts of lipophilic ingredients in aqueous systems. Things like Xanthan Gum, Cellulose thickeners, etc.
But you have to understand, the reason people use emulsifiers is because they work. They were invented to be superior solutions to problem of combining oils with water. You’re talking about going backwards in technology so you can’t expect that old technology will give you results anywhere close to what modern technology gives.
My question is why would you want to use an inferior technology for solving this problem?
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Hello, I am able to make add upto 1-2% of oil phase (Isoamyl laurate and Squalane mainly) with all these different gelling agents:
- Xanthan Gum X 34 (0.5)
- Siligel (0.5-1%)
- Ecogel 0.5% and Xanthan gum X 34 - 0.3%
These all passed the stability tests of centrifuge at 3000 rpm. The only issue we have is slight pilling after application of serum, followed by face oil or sunscreen. Did anyone try this? If yes, how did you overcome the pilling?
We have reduced pilling to a great extent by adding Pentylene Glycol (which improves absorption and therefore reduces the film formation). But it is still there. Is there any other way to reduce pilling? May be by changing oil%?
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Centrifugue in these type of systems is not the best predictor of stability. You need to put your sample in the oven for few months. Now, gums will peel when dry. You either change your system (emulsion) or accept that they will peel. Pentylene glycol (and other glycols) humect the gum, but there’s just so much you can add before the stickiness kicks in.
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Interestingly, I had recently looked at this product, but I find it hard to believe they are able to suspend what must be 1-2% oil using only xanthan gum and not make the product feel too tacky/sticky. https://www.ulta.com/p/golden-booster-amla-berry-vitamin-c-brightening-serum-pimprod2023210?sku=2621444
(Additionally I do wonder how potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate are enough to preserve, but I think that’s another matter.)
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Well maybe you overlooked it….but they do have ‘kindness’ in there, at the end of the INCI. ????
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I am tempted to start keeping a list of products with suspect ingredient lists . . .
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