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Improve lotion Skin absorption and Impart Non-Greasy texture
Hello,
I am recently Pharmaceutical scientist turned chemist and need your expert advise on product development.
I am working on natural ingredient based lotion. The following is the composition:Ingredients Shea
Butter 2.5%Emulsifying
wax NF 5%MCT Oil 5%
Jojoba
Oil 0.5%Sweet Almond
Oil 1%Vitamin E
Oil 0.1%Fragrance 1%
Aloe vera
leaf juice 4%Glycerin 4.0%
Phenoxyethanol 1.2%
Purified
water 75.7%The lotion is Non-Greasy as targeted.
However, It does take a while to absorb at skin surface. It forms a white layer on application and takes few seconds to absorb.
Please guide to improve the formula to reduce the skin absorption time
and still keep the lotion Non Greasy.The choice of ingredients can vary from natural to synthetic sources.
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16 Replies
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I believe emulsifying wax has tween (polysorbate in it) which can “soap” on the skin. Maybe try a different combination of emulsifiers. Also, in either case try adding 0.75% to 1.0% dimethicone to help with “soaping”.
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This looks like a natural formulation and there are natural silicone replacements like Isoamyl Laurate-naturally derived. Hope this helps. Catherine
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How is Emulsifying Wax, NF “natural?”
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Ahh you are on the ball tonight, it’s late here & I just had a glance. Phenoxyethanol isn’t natural either but it was semi natural Ha
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DavidW
Thank you for your guidance. I will try using 1-2% Dimethicone.
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Dr Catherine Pratt:
Thank you for your guidance Dr. Pratt. I will try to use both dimethicone and
Isoamyl Laurate and also try to explore other emulsifier combinations.
I do understand that it is difficult to have an all natural formulation. Just trying to keep it natural as possible with commercial application.
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@dtank I too had the whiting effect and adding 1% dimethicone to my oils phase fixed that. It was MAGICAL!!!!
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Check your local regulations because phenoxyethanol is generally limited to a maximum of 1% for cosmetics in most regions of the world.
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Why don’t you try a combination of Montanov 68 MB + Glyceryl Stearate as your emulsifier mix + Isoamyl Laurate or Heptyl Undecylenate … that should help eliminate the soaping and keep you all natural.
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@dtank You may find this post useful
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/comment/25288#Comment_25288
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Maybe you could also try Leucidal SF as your all natural preservative instead of phenoxyethanol. If you have to use it, I think Euxyl 9010 from Shulke is better. It contains Phenoxyethanol & Ethylhexylglycerin and as Ozgirl said 1% is the preferred amount.
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Leucidal SF has proven to be ineffective. AMT has added the Coconut AMTCide to the product and the combination is Leucidal Complete. It still has some gaps in yeast/mold coverage. It also needs to be used as part of a hurdle technique and the final Formulation should be sent off for PET (Challenge Testing). Interestingly enough I worked on a project with the AMT Technical Department and we saw increased coverage with a chelant as well.
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Hey @Microformulation I meant the Leucidal complete with the AMP-cide. That is an interesting project, what was the chelant you used?
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Leucidal Complete already has the AMTCide incorporated.Based upon the positioning of the product in a “naturally compliant” market, EDTA was off limits. We used Dermofeel PA-3.If a DIYer or Hobbyist uses these “natural preservatives”, they must take extra care. cGMP, Cleaning and Sanitation are crucial. As David Steinberg once told me, “The best preservative is good cGMP.”
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From (unfortunate) experience, I can tell you that Leucidal Complete is highly unreliable. I recently developed a suite of products for a client who specified Leucidal Complete. Even using a hurdle approach, we passed PCT on at best, 50% of the products. After that experience, I routinely tell clients who specify Leucidal that should it fail the PCT, I will charge them extra to produce more batches with proper preservation ingredients.
Much more reliable is Dermosoft 1388 combined with Dermosoft PEA (Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate + Phenethyl Alcohol) all from Evonik/Dr. Straetmans.
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Another great preservative system that is also extremely Process dependent. Without good cGMP these are really “unknowns” which should be tested as you did. I just imagine that there are an incredible amount of products on the market that use these products and do not test. PET failures waiting to be tested.
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