Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Ideas on how to make pomade rinse off better?

  • Ideas on how to make pomade rinse off better?

    Posted by indieformulator on November 14, 2022 at 6:26 pm

    Phase A
    Water 30%
    Hairfix 16%
    Peg 40 9%
    Propenediol 2%

    Phase B
    Kaolin clay 19%
    shea butter 2.5%
    Ceteryl alc 2.5%
    green tea butter 2.5%
    meadowfoam oil 2.5%
    carnauba wax 2%
    candelilla wax 2%
    castor wax 2%
    glycine benzoic acid 1%
    oliwax 2.5%
    Behenyl 3%

    Fragrance 2%

    I mix by heating phase b in a double boiler making sure its all melted, then add phase a which has also been heated and whisk vigorously until everything is mixed and the texture is like a crepe batter or very thin pancake batter. Then I pour into my containers.

    The clients that Ive given samples to love the product. Ive only had 3 people tell me that it was a little hard to rinse off and was a little clumpy when they tried applying.

    Im wondering what could I do to make this rinse better? Do I increase the amount of water? Do I use different waxes? Not really sure where to go from here to tweak the final product. Any insight would be appreciated. Im also not chemist by trade so forgive me for any ignorance. Thanks!

    RobboAU replied 2 years, 1 month ago 4 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 14, 2022 at 8:01 pm

    Is this a solid? It looks like it would be solid. Also, what is Hairfix? That is not any kind of INCI listed ingredient that I know of.

    Perhaps it might help to have some kind of surfactant/emulsifier in there (e.g. behentrimonium methosulfate, glyceryl stearate or cetrmionium choride). It’s hard to say.

  • indieformulator

    Member
    November 14, 2022 at 8:28 pm

    Perry said:

    Is this a solid? It looks like it would be solid. Also, what is Hairfix? That is not any kind of INCI listed ingredient that I know of.

    Perhaps it might help to have some kind of surfactant/emulsifier in there (e.g. behentrimonium methosulfate, glyceryl stearate or cetrmionium choride). It’s hard to say.

    Hi, its more of a clay pomade so its not as solid as a straight up wax would be. my apologies on the hairfix, It is Hairfix XH Maltodextrin. Its a plant based polymer. The Behenyl Creammaker is listed as an emulsifier. It consists of behenyl alcohol and polyglyceryl-3 stearate. Should I maybe use more of this then? Thank you so much!

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 15, 2022 at 10:54 am

    @indieformulator Perhaps you feel that because of the amount of waxes you have. Try replacing some by some of your fatty alcohol.

  • indieformulator

    Member
    November 15, 2022 at 2:11 pm

    ketchito said:

    @indieformulator Perhaps you feel that because of the amount of waxes you have. Try replacing some by some of your fatty alcohol.

    Thank you, youre saying I should decrease a wax and add more of the fatty alcohol?

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 16, 2022 at 1:55 am

    @indieformulator Yes, that’s correct, bit it all depends on the final consistency you want to reach.

  • RobboAU

    Member
    November 16, 2022 at 11:40 pm

    I’d also suggest trying a fatty alcohol, but more specifically a blend like Montanov 68 or Emulgade PL 68/50 (cetearyl alcohol & cetearyl glucoside). 

    They should help improve the rinse-out if you’re using them around 3-4%.

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