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I need advice INCI Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
INCI Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, i think it called a Lipohydroxylic acid, can someone help, please, how does one formulate with this ingredient? Can it be used in creams/lotions, or it is too strong? I searched all over internet and can only find some oil serum with this…please help!
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7 Replies
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What do you want to use it to do?
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Hi Perry
From description
“LHA has a greater affinity for the epidermis, so it works
even more gently. Lipohydroxyacid stimulates epidermal regeneration, has
antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-fungal properties, which is why it is
used for the care of oily and acne skin as well as contaminated sensitive skin.
keratolytic effectiveness, tolerance and reduces the risk of irritation. With BHA, the exfoliation takes place over the entire
thickness of the stratum corneum ( stratum corneum) - lipohydroxy acid
works in a manner similar to the natural exfoliation of the epidermis. Due
to the slow, even penetration, capriole salicylic acid can be used in lower
concentrations than salicylic acid (from 0.3 to 2%).”I am looking to formulate some sort of serum for oily,
congested skin.Here is the easiest one, but I am not sure if this will be
effective as it is an oil-serum and the description saying LHA required the
correct PH which is 399% Oils
1% LHA - Lipohydroxylic
acid -
Here is a relevant paper on the subject.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5300717/
Essentially, LHA is a derivative of Salicylic Acid and works as a Beta Hydroxy Acid.
In the paper I attached, they claim it helps to exfoliate the skin, has a comedolytic effect and helps reduce the skin erythema of Benzoyl Peroxide.
The description you gave is marketing-speak which doesn’t really say much that is helpful. Phrases like “…greater affinity” and “works more gentle” are not precise enough for them to mean anything. Greater affinity than what? More gentle than what? Some of those claims also border on drug claims (epidermal regeneration) which would be illegal. LHA is not an approved anti-acne drug.
Anyway, from what I gather from the research paper, you want to use LHA as a substitute for Salicylic Acid.
I did not find any research that said LHA is as effective as Salicylic acid against acne. I also didn’t find any research that said you needed to use it at pH 3 to be effective.
I also don’t think putting oil on an acne prone face is a good idea.
Yes, you could probably make an emulsion using LHA. In fact, L’Oreal has already done it, as has La Roche Posay
https://www.laroche-posay.us/effaclar-serum-3337872413155.html?cgid=lipo-hydroxy-acid-acne#start=4
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@Perry, thank you Perry!
Yes, i know that L’Oreal and La Roche Posayhas already done it, i just dont know the procedure, i mean how to incorporate it in formula, what PH should be… The 99% oils- 1% LHA is just because in oils i don’t need the PH, and oils could be easters, or mix of easter+light oils, as LHA is oil soluble … -
If you check, L’Oreal has a patent on the product in acne as seen here. https://patents.google.com/patent/US20070025947A1/en?q=Capryloyl&q=Salicylic+Acid&oq=Capryloyl+Salicylic+Acid
I am unsure if the patent is still valid and I believe a patent attorney would be your best source. If you read the body of the patent, they go through the process of formulating with the product. However, if the patent is still valid you may have some obstacles to offering a product for sale.
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Great idea @Microformulation. You won’t be able to sell that formula but it provides you an excellent starting place.
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Oh My God! Easters!
Ha-ha, i am already thinking about egg hunt!!! :p @Microformulation indeed, what a great idea!!! How didn’t i think about the patents myself?! thank you very much!
@Perry , no not going to sell, it’s just for myself.
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