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How would you improve ?
Hello,
Im working on a hair serum and I need professional opinions about this formulation. How can I improve the sticky feelings and heavy feelings?How would you improve ?
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC
TRIGLYCERIDE 36%ISOPROPYL
MYRISTATE 26,60%JOJOBA OIL 3,00% OLIVE OIL 5,00% ARGAN OIL 2,00% SUNFLOWER OIL 10,00% E VİTAMİNİ 0,1% SWEET ALMOND
OIL 10,00%HEMP SEED OIL 5,00% Preservative 0,8% Fragrance 1,50% thanks
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11 Replies
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It is all oils and oils are heavy
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I would reduce fragrance to 1% or less. To make it feel lighter, you could try replacing some of the olive oil and sweet almond oil with a lighter oil like the sunflower seed oil, but I agree with Abdullah. You might consider using esters instead of oils for a less sticky/heavy product.
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First of all, thank you for replying. What esters would you recommend? @Camel
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@filiz Even though vegetable oils can make your formula feel heavy, ester in your formula can also contribute, especialy the ones you are using. Try replacing part of them for more volatile lubricants like Emogreen L9 or some of cyclomethicone replacements (Inolex has some nice ones).
Also, that amount of Isopropyl myristate can increase irritation. Plus, some vegetable oils can be comedogenic, so don’t use too much of them.
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Hi, hope you’re fine @ketchito
I’m having a hard time finding some silicone alternatives, frankly.What % do you think isopropyl myristate should be reduced to? and If you have any other suggestions that meet the condition, please let me know -
filiz said:Hi, hope you’re fine @ketchito
I’m having a hard time finding some silicone alternatives, frankly.What % do you think isopropyl myristate should be reduced to? and If you have any other suggestions that meet the condition, please let me knowFor silicone alternatives I’m fond of the lexfeel series if you can get your hands on them. INCI is diheptyl succinate AND caprylol glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer.
I would say no more than 5% isopropyl myristate
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filiz said:First of all, thank you for replying. What esters would you recommend? @Camel
You could replace the olive oil with Natrasil (Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) which should be much lighter and less sticky. I like to use it in moisturizers/conditioners. You could also replace the jojoba oil with jojoba esters. Another ingredient you might consider researching is C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate. I don’t have experience with it, though.
filiz said:Hi, hope you’re fine @ketchito
I’m having a hard time finding some silicone alternatives, frankly.What % do you think isopropyl myristate should be reduced to? and If you have any other suggestions that meet the condition, please let me knowIt is hard to find alternatives to silicones without sacrificing performance. Natrasil is marketed as a silicone alternative, but you definitely won’t get the same performance. It’s still an option, though.
Most sellers suggest using isopropyl myristate at no more than 10%.
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@WarrenChemist thanks for giving me some alternatives
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@Camel
Thanks for your detailed answer. It was so useful and I have one more question too… Do you know any thickener for this serum. This formula has very low viscosity -
@filiz what hair type is this oil for? Because it will be way too heavy for anybody except people with very textured, dry, frizzy, super curly hair. The concentration of oil is much too high. Similar to what others suggested, I would replace big part of the oils with dimethicone, isododecane, etc. Why do you want to increase viscosity? Hair serum being thin is usually a good thing, it improves spreadability. And some are packaged in spray bottles, so low viscosity can be desirable.
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What exactly are you trying to accomplish @filiz? Are you trying to stimulate hair growth, or just condition the hair itself? Please state clearly the result you’re aiming for.
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