Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How to avoid shiny look from face moisturizer

  • How to avoid shiny look from face moisturizer

    Posted by Cosderm on September 24, 2021 at 9:36 pm

    Hello everybody, 
    my question is how to avoid shininess from a light face moisturizer. I have limited access to sophisticated esters, but I tried different combinations and still I can’t solve it. I got inspired by a great big brand moisturizer in which there are no silicons but instead the main component of it is C/C triglycerides followed by lauroyl lisine, C15-19 ALKANE • MYRISTYL MYRISTATE. 

    I tried using very light esters but they all look very shiny on the skin and bigger inputs of L-lisine gives a powdery after feel which I don’t personally like. 
    Would would you best recommend? 
    Thank you all 
    Cosderm replied 3 years, 3 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Paprik

    Member
    September 26, 2021 at 9:02 pm

    I believe @Graillotion was dealing with this some time ago? 

    - Put the lipid neat on your hand or face and see how it “shines”. And choose the less “shiny” ones.
    - Check for reflective index (I believe that’s how it’s called).
    - Try different emulsifiers - e.g. Montanov 202 has mattifying properties for example.

  • Cosderm

    Member
    September 27, 2021 at 9:47 pm

    @Paprik Thank you really much, this is what I usually perform before putting together  an oil phase. But unfortunately I don’t have access to many sophisticated raw materials. I wanted to work with isohexadodecane but can’t find a seller in italy( or Europe). 

    I’m going to try, tho, isododecane. 
    What’s your feeling about C/C Triglyceride? It shouldn’t have that high R.I but I still can see it when applied to skin in emulsion at considering %. 
    Last thing, do you think that the homogenization process, that really disperses oil into water, also can contribute to the final result of the cosmetic ( I mean for the shininess aspect of it). I recently bought an homogenizator for me, waiting to receive it. 
    Thank you all 

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