Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How Many Actives?

  • How Many Actives?

    Posted by Anonymous on March 31, 2016 at 9:55 pm

    I had a customer ask me if I can put AHA, Niacinamide and Salicyclic Acid all in one product…a serum, a lotion, a cream or whatever (she doesn’t care what the end product is) for an anti-aging product.

    She would like this with oils such as Rosehip, Meadowfoam etc.  She’s been reading a lot of articles and wanted to know if, instead of paying for multiple products, she can’t just have all these actives in one product along with her favorite oils.  I had no answer/clue.  I’ve made her an emulsified scrub with Niacinamide and a serum with Salicyclic Acid and one with AHA.  She said, “Why can’t we combine these all in one product?” I’ve tried to look for the answer, but can’t find it.  I assume I’d have to a) combine each active with whatever medium it dissolves in before adding it to the product and b) make sure they all live in the same PH environment and c) have each at a certain percentage. This seems like a crazy amount of work but I’m not even sure if it can be done or what the best product type would be. 
    DragoN replied 8 years, 8 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • Microformulation

    Member
    April 1, 2016 at 1:55 am

    This would be an OTC product and very difficult. Also I don’t believe that it is allowed or would be safe to use the AHA’s with a BHA (Salicylic acid, OTC).

    No offense please, but your questions show that you may not be ready for such a product. AHA’s must be used within certain limits of percentage and pH. Salicylic acid is difficult to dissolve and an OTC, requiring a great deal more due diligence and documentation. Niacinamide becomes nicotinic acid below a certain pH.

    These are not innocuous compounds which lend themselves to crafters or even smaller lines without an experinced Chemist.

  • DragoN

    Member
    April 1, 2016 at 7:45 pm

    In the interest of safety, agree with Mark. 

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