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How is this formula? It’s so soapy, and it’s PH is 8.
Am a new in cosmetic formulation. Any suggestion and advise to this formulation regarding it’s shaping effect and PH 8.
Hello everyone. My lotion is appearing so soapy upon applying it, what could be causing this and how can i avoid it. The recipe below????.Oil phaseCoconut oil 2%Shear butter 2%Sweet Almond oil 4%Eco wax 3%Stearic Acid 2%Water phaseDistilled water 84%Cool down phaseVitamin E 1%Lavender fragrance 1%Euxyl k712 -
13 Replies
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Oh wow…
The BIG first…you are using a preservative that does not function well (probably at all) at the pH you have!
So lower the pH with citric or lactic acid to about 4.8.
You forgot your chelate.
You forgot the humectant….start with glycerin.
Dimethicone will alleviate the soaping.
Cut vitamin E in half.
Give that a shot….and see how it turns out.
But KUDOS for knowing your pH!!!
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Thank you so much.
What chelating agent can you recommend?
What cutting the vitamin E to half if i my ask?
Or what is the recommended usage rate of vitamin E in a formulation? Is it the amount of unsaturated oils in the recipe?
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What is the inci of Eco wax?
Use some phenoxyethanol or DMDM hydantoin too. That preservative may not be enough alone even at pH 4.8.
Which vitamin e are you using?
You dont need more than 0.1% in a formula. -
Noted with thanks!
The inci name for the emulsifier is Glyceryl stearate SE.
The preservative (Euxyl k712) is a broad spectrum one under it’s description. Even if it’s a broad spectrum one, i still need another preservative? Just for clarity sake.
Am using vitamin E oil.
I really appreciate for your effort in replying.
Thank you so much.
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“Broad Spectrum” is a marketing term. Not a scientific term.
Lesson #2 in cosmetics: NEVER trust the marketing material produced to sell you ingredients.
Regarding Vitamin E
There is a video in this link that does a good job at helping understand Vitamin E, inclusion and forms.
Please list your form of E…as ‘oil’ tells us nothing.
How to Make Cosmetics with Vitamin E Antioxidant (ulprospector.com)
For chelator, EDTA is of course the best, but some people will also use sodium phytate, or GLDA / TSGD (the latter two are a little more biodegradable.) Any of them are monumentally better than…nothing.
(Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate)
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Thank you so much for the valuable information given.
I was behind regarding the use of vitamin E.
One of my friend even said that i can use grapeseed oil as an oxidant because it contains also vitamin E.
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Isaac52 said:
One of my friend even said that i can use grapeseed oil as an oxidant because it contains also vitamin E.
Friends are great to have…but not always a good source of information.
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Worthy hearing????
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I will have to buy vitamin e (tocopherol).
The vitamin E i have been using, i normally use it on my home made cold process soap.
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Isaac52 said:Noted with thanks!
The inci name for the emulsifier is Glyceryl stearate SE.
The preservative (Euxyl k712) is a broad spectrum one under it’s description. Even if it’s a broad spectrum one, i still need another preservative? Just for clarity sake.
Am using vitamin E oil.
I really appreciate for your effort in replying.
Thank you so much.
Glyceryl stearate SE is a mixture of glyceryl stearate and stearate soap, the SE stands for self-emulysifying. Stearate soap is what makes it self-emulysifying. Decreasing pH of stearate soap, will turn it back into stearic acid. Therefore, you need to reconsider your preservative or emulsifier. If you want to stick with glyceryl stearate se, consider preservatives that are functional at wider pH range than organic acids like benzoic and sorbic. Phenoxyethanol with parabens would fit the bill.
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@Isaac52 You mentioned a pH of 8, but I don’t see a neutralizer (for the Stearic acid). Did you add some base? Also, stearates makes nice but soapy emulsions. And as @Formulator mentioned, you need high pH for your stearate to work, which will contradict the pH required for your preservative system. I’d advise you to change your emulsifiers and keep your pH low (adding also a proper antibacterial to support your organic acids).
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Noted with thanks!????.
If am allowed to ask, since you have said that the stearate soap is the portion that makes the mentioned emulsifier to be self-emilsifying.
What really does it mean when you said it’s a self emulsifier? Does it really mean it doesn’t need another emulsifier to aid it in stabilizing and emulsifying the solution?
Does it really mean that the alkaline condition of 8 is because of the stearate soap, since it’s an anionic ( being a soap?
So if i drop the ph to say 5.5 and the stearate soap will turn back into lactic acid ( as you have said). Will this lactic acid act a stabilizer and thickner
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Isaac52 said:
@formulatorNoted with thanks!????.
If am allowed to ask, since you have said that the stearate soap is the portion that makes the mentioned emulsifier to be self-emilsifying.
What really does it mean when you said it’s a self emulsifier? Does it really mean it doesn’t need another emulsifier to aid it in stabilizing and emulsifying the solution?
Does it really mean that the alkaline condition of 8 is because of the stearate soap, since it’s an anionic ( being a soap?
So if i drop the ph to say 5.5 and the stearate soap will turn back into lactic acid ( as you have said). Will this lactic acid act a stabilizer and thickner
@Isaac52 In theory, you might get away with using only glyceryl stearate SE, if you add enough. In practice, complementing it with another emulsifier, structuring agent and some rheology modifier in the water phase will probably yield better stability.
Yes, stearate soap portion of glyceryl stearate SE is increasing the pH of your cream.The lower you drop the pH, the more stearic acid you will get. You will need to check how low you can go without affecting the stability of your system.
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