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How can I improve this Multi-tasking Face Cream?
Hi all,
I am interested in learning how I can improve this formula. I am a novice and while this cream has actually been amazing for my skin, I fear it lacks the elements that would truly maximize efficacy and stability. How can I fine tune this formula to reflect something more professional? My goal is to have a multi-tasking daily face cream that targets uneven tone, sun damage, and dehydrated, aging skin. Thanks!
Phase A: glycerin (3%)
Resveratrol (.5%)
Phase B: Distilled Water (49%)
Rose Hydrosol (10%)
Niacinimide (4%)
Propanediol (3%)
Phase C: Squalane light (c13-15 Alkane) (5%)
Squalene (5%)
Cetearyl Alcohol (2.5%)
Phase D: Gel Maker EMU (3%)
Phase E: Tocopherol 95% (.5%)
Ceramide Complex (2%)
72 Hour Moisture (2%)
Collagen (.5%)
3-Glyceryl Ascorbate (1.5%)
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate ( 3%)
Glycan Booster Peptide (3%)
Euxyl 9010 (.7%)
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16 Replies
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Hello,
I’m not a professional, but I can try to offer you some advice.
Regarding stability, you will definitely want to introduce a chelating agent to your formula, something like Disodium EDTA or Sodium Phytate. They are relatively inexpensive and only require a small amount (about 0.1-0.2%) to boost your preservative system. As far as your preservative is concerned, as a home formulator you should probably consider including it at the maximum usage rate, which for Euxyl PE 9010 I believe it is 1%. There are also more effective preservatives you could consider looking into, such as Liquid Germall Plus or Phenonip P4.
I don’t believe rose hydrosol is offering any benefits to your formula, and it comes at a higher risk of microbial contamination than plain distilled water. If you’re just using it for the scent, I think you would be better off adding a small amount of fragrance instead.
While I don’t have any experience formulating with Vitamin C, I have heard that it is difficult even for professionals to make a cream with it, and that by time the consumer uses it, the Vitamin C will likely have oxidized. I also heard that collagen is too large of a molecule to penetrate the skin, so it might not be adding much to your formula.
For dehydrated skin, you’ve already got a combination of humectants and emollients, but you should consider adding a more occlusive ingredient as well, like petrolatum or dimethicone, or maybe even shea butter or cocoa butter. Dimethicone might offer the best skin-feel for a face cream, try adding it at around 1-2%.
Good luck!
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Thank you so much! Great points that I will consider for the next batch. I did think the two forms of vitamin C I included were the more stable forms (i.e. NOT L-ascorbic acid). What I’m definitely unsure of is which form of the more stable Vitamin Cs is the most effective. These two I just had on hand so I used them.
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I assume you are using squalane, and not squalene? If so..what is the purpose of the Vit E? No real natural lipid that needs protecting? Claim value? I can understand that…but no need to include that much.
As mentioned…needs a chelate…another good option is TSGD aka GLDA aka Tetrasodium Glutamate
Diacetate, if you don’t want to use EDTAI have no issue with the inclusion rate of the PE 9010…as you don’t have a formula full of bug food. You could toss in some pentylene glycol…as an additional booster.
Based on the types of Vit C being used…I think you need a pH below 5. Did not see a mention of lactic acid…what is your native pH?
The combo of a fatty alcohol with a primarily steric hindrance emulsifier…has me a little puzzled…and wondering if this is why you question the stability? Fatty alcohols work between the phases….in that type of emulsion….not sure there is a ‘between’. Need someone with a little more brain power than I…to confirm the concept.
Good Luck. Get a chelate…and you’ll be on your way.
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I agree…try to get rid of the rose water…. you always hate to lose control of the quality of the water in the formula. ????
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Hi there thanks for this..
1. The formula includes both c13-15 Alkane at 5% and Squalane at 5%. The tocopherol is needed to protect the Squalane, right?
2. I have TSGD so will add this
3. I need to double check the PH with regard to the vitamin C!
4. Now, I’m as stumped as you! I initially was making this as a gel cream and only using the Gel Maker EMU. I decided to try to thicken it and so added the Cetearyl Alcohol. I actually like the result but am certain it wasn’t the proper avenue to achieve a thicker, creamier result. What should I have done and perhaps I go back to drawing board and not even use the Gel Maker
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Numbered response:
1) Do you normally feel a need to preserve saturated hydrocarbons? I think if you dig a little deeper….you will discover that squalane…is a very different beast than you imagine. Think mineral oil. ???? Playing devils advocate….even if you did feel a need to treat it…that rate is 5X more than you would need. The mommy blogger sites are pretty comical in their adamant support of increasing sales of Vitamin E, for vendors selling it. I’ll drop a pic in…that shows the expected use rate in industry (see attached).
2) Absolutely, do it, a no brainer.
3) I already checked. 🙂 They do have a nice overlap in their respective ranges.
4) Now the tough one. I think if you looked at polymeric only emulsions….the use of fatty alcohols would be pretty rare. Yes, they can be used in many ways…but their strength comes from working in the interface between phases. This is also why you rarely find them in an W/O emulsion. However..I have seen people use them for anything and everything…from lubricant to physical structuring builder.
So Gel cream…to me…that is the most elegant of the emulsions…but when I imagine it, I envision a traditional non-ionic or anionic emulsion, with a pleasant inclusion of steric hindrance from a polymeric or group of polymerics. So in that situation, the fatty alcohol has its traditional place to operate. As I look at the emulsifier you selected (which I have never used), I struggle to see where the fatty alcohol can logically play? But again….my knowledge does not fully extend to the end of this concept.
So about all I can say….is I love a gel aspect… I like to create my version with 165 + Aristoflex AVC, and if I’m in a good mood…even some carbomer. Fatty alcohols have a natural fit in this system. Seems like if I removed the 165… the fatty alcohols no longer have a place to play (if all that is left is steric hindrance)? Not that they wouldn’t do something….it would just be something different from how I would normally use them. 🙂 Well…maybe one of the more experienced ones will drop in, and set me/you straight. 🙂
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Ok so Squalane may not require the vitamin E but if it did a ,01% may be sufficient … I’ll spend some time trying to understand Squalane better. After reading your point #4 several times I’m only still only half understanding because I am not a professional 🙂 but Ill be doing some experiments because I do have 165 and aristoflex and would like to see how that system works.
I did initially have a gel cream in mind but using just the Gel Maker did not result in a thick enough product. I suspect after reading <b style=”background-color: var(-bb-content-background-color); font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>jemolian’s comment that could actually be due to the inclusion of 72h moisture and the glycan booster peptide so I’m going to try a version with the Gel Maker but excluding those two ingredients.
This is all so helpful thank you
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- Resveratrol might be easy to oxidize, so it really depends if you want to add to this formula as it depends on the batch you want to make.
- Niacinamide / 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate / Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - The pH might not be in the compatible range. You might want to also just use 1 of the vit c.
- 72 Hour Moisture & Glycan Booster Peptide - It might affect the viscosity of the Gel Maker EMU, so it’s something to consider as they seem to contain electrolytes.
- You might want to add an emulsifier blend.
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Thank you! point #4 may be why the result was so thin when just using the Gel Maker. I am unclear about how to determine if an ingredient contains electrolytes.
Regarding the Vitamin C, I read that the PH ranges do overlap. In any case, I’m considering replacing them both with Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate which requires final Ph between 6-7 (which would work with the Niacinimide).
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(I meant point #3)
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You’d be fine with either of the first two (not sure of the value of using two…other than ‘claim’), especially if you already have them.
The net is full of bad lore on the pH range of using niacinamide. You might find this a good read:
Using Niacinamide in an acidic formulation | Realize Beauty (wordpress.com)
realizebeauty.wordpress.com
Using Niacinamide in an acidic formulation
I have been having an interesting discussion with one of my clients this week about formulations containing Niacinamide and AHA’s. Niacinamide is also known as Vitamin B3 and it is a great s…
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You can take a look at the blend, specs, or SDS if they mention any ingredients that include sodium, magnesium, etc. So MAP, it won’t work out.
You can take a look at Graillotion’s url that he provided. If based on the pH range mentioned in the post, you can consider the Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, if you prefer a water soluble one, you can perhaps consider Ethyl Ascorbic Acid.
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Oh yes thank you for pointing this out to me. The MAP would not work here.
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A few things:
(1) Have you had any issues with the resveratrol? In my experience its poorly soluble in water. I’ve only successfully solubilized it in alcohol.
(2) I would remove the floral water, its not doing anything here other than adding potential micro concerns. I would also remove 72hr moisture based solely on unfamiliarity with active ingredient. I find many plant based actives such as this to be gimmicky, you can increase the glycerin if you wish to increase the % of humectants or add sodium pca. At least that’s how I would do it, I love glycerin. And its much cheaper.
(3) I think what’s missing is a nice silicone blend.
(4) as previously mentioned, chelating agent.
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The resveratrol is solubilized in the Glycerin (which I love as an ingredient as well). thank you!
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