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HLA vs other rheo mod?
I’m relatively new to this, so forgive me, but I’m finding multiple formulas for serums that are gelled solely with HMW HLA. I live in Colorado, where there’s appallingly little atmospheric moisture, so the HLA doesn’t do much for the skin, since it can’t draw any water. If anything, I’ve read that it can be counterproductive and dry out the skin as it tries to sap moisture from the underlying skin to swell up the HLA, which then evaporates into the air.
Anyway, I’ve got a few other rheology modifiers/gelling agents in my collection so far, and I’m curious which one(s) would be the best substitutes for HLA in HLA-thickened serums/masks/toners.
I have:
Siligel
Sodium carbomer (preneutralized)
Sepimax zen
Xanthan gum (soft)
Xanthan gum (regular)
Acacia Senegal gum
Sodium alginate
Lipidthix (for thickening oils into butters, and that’s about it)
Which would I sub into a CE Ferulic type serum? How about in a water-based jelly mask? How do I know when it’s best to use each one, and what substitution ratio I’d need to use? I believe siligel is a 2-3% use and Sepimax zen is a 3-5%? I’d have to check. Sepimax can be destabilized by any electrolyte over 10%, and by actives that have Hydrolyzed proteins.
Thanks for any input.
Also, what’s a good substitute for Gelmaker NAT and Gelmaker EMU? I don’t have any of the Gelmaker line, but would like to make a cream gel. I do have lotion pro 165, so would that work in concert with one of my gelling agents to create a similar effect? I’ve found a cream gel formula I’d like to try, but it’s based around the making cosmetics Gelmaker line, and I’m struggling to figure out what it’s equivalent would be in a different brand. Thanks again!!
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3 Replies
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Hyaluronic acid is primarily used as a claim ingredient, for a couple of reasons. It has a fascinating story/marketing line….can absorb 1000 X it’s weight in water. The non-thinking public will jump all over this like a feeding frenzy at a Koi pond. It is also popular in that it is part of NMF, which again….will generally produce a feeding frenzy…without the consumer ever once asking….’How’ or ‘Why’.
So why is it sometimes used as a sole gelling agent? Simple…it is a reasonably electrolyte resistant gelling agent that has good consumer perception. With so many of the elegant gelling agents being reasonably intolerant to the electrolytes….there is certainly a niche for it.
Most consumers that don’t lie to themselves….eventually figure out…that HA by itself is quite drying to the skin….as it is always trying to recapture max hydration. So if it is used in a product where hydration is important…then we support it with other…more functional moisturizers, but still sing the ‘claims’ of HA. Quite frankly…I hate the stuff….yet use it often?! ????
So back to your question… you can use any of the gelling agents you mentioned….however…the haptics will vary dramatically. The gums….are likely to become snotty … if used at too high a level… Zen gets Jiggly and gross above about .5%. I was a little surprised that Aristoflex AVC was not on your list…as it is held in high regard by many crafters, and especially professionals? If you look at elegant products…they will often blend more than one polymeric….to create a synergy of textures….ie… try a blend of Aristoflex AVC and Sodium Carbomer. The limiting factor with most of the polymerics….is of course…their sensitivity to electrolytes….so the first question is…. is there anything else in the formula that precludes using gelling agent X?
Good Luck.
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Hyaluronic acid is primarily used as a claim ingredient, for a couple of reasons. It has a fascinating story/marketing line….can absorb 1000 X it’s weight in water. The non-thinking public will jump all over this like a feeding frenzy at a Koi pond. It is also popular in that it is part of NMF, which again….will generally produce a feeding frenzy…without the consumer ever once asking….’How’ or ‘Why’.
So why is it sometimes used as a sole gelling agent? Simple…it is a reasonably electrolyte resistant gelling agent that has good consumer perception. With so many of the elegant gelling agents being reasonably intolerant to the electrolytes….there is certainly a niche for it.
Most consumers that don’t lie to themselves….eventually figure out…that HA by itself is quite drying to the skin….as it is always trying to recapture max hydration. So if it is used in a product where hydration is important…then we support it with other…more functional moisturizers, but still sing the ‘claims’ of HA. Quite frankly…I hate the stuff….yet use it often?! ????
So back to your question
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Regarding your last question…. I use a lot of 165 and similar emulsifiers. Rare is the day….I do not add a polymeric (gelling agent) to the formula….as it simply makes them feel better.
As mentioned earlier….products like Aristoflex AVC…which is sensitive to electrolytes…. you play this as a strength…. It will ‘break’ aka ‘fast-break’ when it contacts your skin…giving that burst of freshness/wetness that makes a product feel unique and special (that portion of the emulsion actually breaks….when contacting the electrolytes of the skin). I have always felt that a slight gel undertone in a standard emulsion….makes it incredibly better.
Polymerics work via steric hindrance, therefore do not interfere with a standard emulsifier…but works in conjunction with them….to increase stability….and if used right….haptics.
Good luck.
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